WFW8300SW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

The removal of the bellows was easy and quick. The instructional video was really good. Only one problem with video. The step of removing the console from washer leaves out that there is a center screw in the center of console. I almost broke the console. It took took a long time in getting bellows on interior area due to tight finger space. Wire gasket fairly easy. The outer gasket after getting door and latch on. Whew! That was a bear. Video looked easy. I finally had to get help to get it on. The reason was that every time I thought I had it, the bellows would roll off will the wire gasket. A screw type as the inner area would make it so much easier. Shipping. Kudos to your company. I was expecting that I would be without washer for a week. I ordered on a Friday and it was here early Monday morning. That was amazing. By the way I did this except the outer wire gasket by myself. I finally had to get "husband" to help with that. Thanks Parts Select! If the need arises that I need another part. You will be my go to company.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Had my appliance man do it. It was the first one he had ever done in 20 years of working on Whirlpool. It was quick. The parts I received from you were cheaper than his supplier. Needless to say that made me very happy!

I found a YouTube video that showed how to totally dismantle the machine. I removed the top ( easy 3 screws). Removed the bottom access panel (easy). Removed the control panel (1 Torx screw and rather tricky to unsnap). Removed the door and hinge (2 Torx screws). Removed the below retaining band (easy). Disconnected the bellow at the front panel then removed the door lock mechanism (easy). Removed the front panel (easy). Removed the bellow clamp on basket side (screwdriver hose clamp type, a little tricky but not too bad). Installed the new bellow paying close attention to the drain holes being centered on the bottom. Assembled all parts in reverse order. The really tricky part was the bellow clamp on the front panel. Patients prevailed.

After getting dress that wife denies closing in door out the repair wasant to hard. There are 3 or 4 phillips screws in back that holds top on that have to be taken out and the kick plate cover on bottom just snaps off but the rest is covered very well by other discriptions.(by the way the dress had to be thrown away so not only did i get to by bellow but a new dress also and the bellow was cheaper)

Just follow the repair video and you are good to go. Very easy my 16yr old did it.

First, I watched the video again just to make sure I had a firm grasp of the task ahead. I gathered up the tools and proceeded to begin. First obstacle: getting the washer tilted back enough to put the blocks under the front feet. The washer was sitting inside a square water pan with a drain connected directly under the middle of the washer. Therefore, the water pan did not move and I could only get the washer moved out far enough to 'barely' put the blocks underneath. Second obstacle: a clump of hair had gathered at the bottom portion of the door unnoticed and caused a slow leak from the bellows. This leak dripped down and rusted out two of the three screws. I had to use a socket set to get the screws out. Third obstacle: getting the pump removed from the bottom of the washer. With the drip, the pump had stuck to the bottom of the washer. Trying hard not to get cut on the sheet metal bottom, I pushed and pushed and pulled until finally the pump let loose. From that point on..smooth sailing just like the video. Washer fixed!

I had to replace the bellow to the washer because I discovered the leak was from the door and bellow area, only problem I really had..... was installing the bellow on the outer drum, I applied a coat of hand soap to make it easier to secure in place.

removed retaining ring on front gasket, pulled gasket back, took out door lock latch, unhooked wires, then reversed method to replace.

I watched the youtube video, then ordered the part from partselect. I then took my ipad out to the garage where I placed my washing machine and completed the removal of the old seal and installed the new one with ease. Be patient when you try and fit the new seal over the lip on the machines doorway. That was the only hard part. Once I got it started, the rest was easy. I am very happy the video was available and even easier to follow the link to order the part. Thanks! Presslerc

Searched internet for diagnosis. Ran diagnostic test using the diagnostic manual from whirlpool. The error code was F29. Replaced door latch but problem was not solved. Then order the Motor Control Unit. Removed old control unit through the top by removing the top washer cover and numbering harness positions with painter's tape. Install the new Control Unit and ran diagnostic procedure. The problem was solved. The washer is working fine.

I purchased the downloadable Maytag Maintenance Manual (PDF format) and followed some of the directions and pointers from this web site. All in all, it was a pretty simple process. 1) Take the top off - 3 metal screws, 2) take the control console and detergent dispenser out - 1 T-20 Torx screw and multiple plastic clips and 1 wire connector, 3) take the lower panel off - 3 metal screws, 4)take bellows retaining ring off -- spring retainer used a needle nose pliers, 4) take off door latching mechanism - 2 T-20 Torx screws and multiple clips + 3 wire connectors, 5) take front panel and door off - 4 metal screws, 6) remove bellows retaining clamp with phillips screw driver, 7) remove old bellows. Reverse the process to install new bellows. On installation, make sure that bellows drain holes are at the bottom of the door. Also, hardest and most time consuming part was installation of the metal retaining ring (spring retainer) fought with it for about a half hour before I finally got it on. BTW all metal screws for my machine were 1/4" head the remainder were all Torx T-20. Good luck!

Perfect part...saved me hundreds on labor. Thanks!

Unplugged washer first! Removed front bottom panel by removing three screws, unscrewed the Drain Plug assembly by turning drain plug counter clockwise with a bucket to catch excess water from washer. Used pliers to remove spring clamps from washer agitator drain hose and then removed the spring clamp from the hose going to drain. Checked hoses for obstructions, then Slide Drain Pump assembly up to the right to remove. Then installed new Drain Pump assembly by sliding pump into slot to the left. Connected the agitator and drain hose to new Drain Pump and fastened with spring clamps. Plugged in AC line cord and turned washer on and started a quick wash cycle to check for leaks and to see if the water drained from washer properly. The water drained from washer and error code did not appear. The error code F21 reappeared during the second wash cycle. After closer inspection with a flash light, I found a large piece of cloth caught between the washer agitator and washer tub covering the drain by shining the flash light up towards the Agitator tub. This was solved by removing the Drain Pump assembly and all of the drain hoses again. Then removing the the large hose from the agitator tub and then removing the large piece of cloth from agitator tub. After reassembly, the washer worked like new!

A previous person had broken the actuator switch connection so I replace it and got rid of the error code. But water poured out and I eventually took off the whole dispenser assembly and found a sock had stopped the big hose up where it enters the outer wash drum.