WER111ES0 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

Ordered in new Element. (took apart dryer first and verified the coil on the old element was broken).

-Disconnected power
-Used flat blade screw driver and popped the top of the dryer off (two clips at front of the dryer on the door piece). Pull lid back and it will rest on its own.
-Removed two screws on the inside of the front door panel then used flat blade to pop four clips off. Lift up then out to removed door panel, drum will fall down.
-Removed small white plastic rest from front frame.
-Removed back silver vent to access motor. Pull the belt tensor away from assembly and pull belt out.
-Remove drum by grabbing belt and front of drum and forcing it up until it releases from the ball housing. Slide drum out of the front of frame/dryer.
-From here you can see the heating element. disconnect the coil wires (pull them). These are in series so it doesn't matter how they go back on. Disconnect the thermostat wires (X is negative lead).
-Removed the four screws from the back of the dryer to disengaged the element. Removed.
-Reassemble backwards.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

Remove rear control panel cover and remove drum belt from pulleys. remove top cover by pushing in on the 2 hold down fasteners on the front with flat head srewdriver. remove front panel by removing the 2 screws and then pop it out by lifting up. disconnect the wires at the quick connect plugs and set the front aside. lift the drum up to pop it out of the bearing housing and move forward slightly to give youself good access to the wires for the heating element and disconnect the 2 wires. remove drum the reset of the way out and do your work. Replacing the heating pan and drum bearing is pretty obvious what to do. (just a few screws). remove thermal cutoff switch from old pan and install on new pan. reinstall in reverse. no need to label wires because it doesn't matter where the wires go an a switch (justs makes and breaks a circuit) and the heater doesn't matter as long as both wires are hooked up to complete the circuit. You can't mess up the quick connectors on the door. Only my heater failed but I also replaced the drum bearing as long as I had it all apart (only another ~$20). Take the time to clean out the dust from inside the dryer, it will help the blower motor run cleaner and cooler and last longer. I bought a belt also to have on hand for replacement. I didn't replace it since my old one was good and it is real quick to replace at a later time.

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.

First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

1.Removed access panel on back of machine in order to place a block under the drum(see step 3).2. Removed the top (clips), 3.removed the front panel(clips), block placed under drum earlier prevents drum from tilting and makes removing front panel with door very easy.4. Slipped new belt on. 5.Replaced front panel and removed block under drum. 6. Aligned belt and checked movement of drum, 7. attched belt to pulley on motor and positioned belt tensioner.8. Installed top and access panels.
This repair is very straight forward, block under drum makes things easy, since the drum stays level when the front panel is removed and replaced.

replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.

I looked up a YouTube video on my specific model. Found one that said “basic disassembly”. I watched that and had it apart and back together in no time. Very easy to take apart and put new parts back in it. Re-assembled and since the repair no squeaking.

Watched video sent to me after I purchased belt on line. Super helpful!

Blower wheel came apart from molded-in nut, was loose, was rubbing on housing wall, and was likelynot moving to much air. I read some troubled stories about separating the wheel nut from the motor shaft so bought a new motor and blower housing and install wall pretty easy. There are videos on the teardown process and does that long and not alot of parts to keep track of either. I have already done the felt drum liner and rear drum ball and belt so if it's older than 15 years and your going to take the dryer apart, replace all these parts and you will about have new dryer at half the cost of new.

Had to open back side vent & use needle nose to secure spring.