WD10410BD (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

Basic skill

After checking for blockage on the drain hose and checking on any blockage on the bottom left corner filter and not finding anything i decided to open the machine. Everything suggested a broken drain pump
ITEM
PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the bottom left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.

the best video was on you tube and showed exactly how to repair my washer. the parts arrived quickly and was a perfect match. thanks for helping me save some moola and making mama happy.

unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off. There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.

disasemble the whole mashine... split outer tank...pound out old bearings... press in new... reassemble.... look for leaks... repair man estament..$900...cost me less than 100.. took 4 hours

Found great Youtube video, followed step by step. Only difficult part was getting the tub gasket clamp back on. But all in all pretty easy. If tub won't drain and weird noise coming from pump do not hesitate to do it yourself and save some coin!

If you are not mechanically inclined and don't have any experience replacing bearings I wouldn't even attempt this repair. I'm a mechanic/welder/fabricator so it wasn't to bad for me. I did need to us a bearing puller to get the damaged bearing off the shaft. The whole job took me about 3 1/2 hours. About $80 in parts. Appliance repair guy quoted me $600 to fix it.

complet disassembly , took almost everything out of the interior . removed the drum holding the agitator and disassembled it . then removed the seal and bearing and replaced with new. also removed seal between drums and replaced it . put it all back and run more quite than when it was new. PS- no leeks!

Disconnected power. Removed washer top, upper front control panel, and front panel. Removed hoses from washer drum housing. Removed cabling and support springs and stabilizers. Removed drum housing from cabinet. Removed bolts that secure the two halves of housing. Removed rotor from drum shaft. Removed stator from housing. Supported drum housing and with hammer and punch, removed drum shaft from bearings. Replaced bearings and seal and reassembled in reverse order.

Took apart the washer and removed bearings and shaft on spider. My advice would be to order the spider and shaft (one piece) hen ordering the bearings, seal, and tub gasket. If the bearings are gone, it is likely the shaft is gone too as mine was.

took lid off of washer (slides back, not pry) and had to dismantle from springs, rubber around door and pistons on bottom. also had to disconnect from electrical plugs and took out dispenser drawer and all hoses. also have to take off magnetic piece devices from off back of drum. mark everything before dismantling with a black permanent marker so you will know what went where when putting back together and what pieces were facing up,top, etc. once get everything freed up, entire tub pulls up out of the washer. get old shot bearings out of drum, but be careful not to beat on it too much so that you don't damage the shaft or "oblong" the tub, etc. ordered parts that arrived in about 2 days. to put new bearings back in, get large washers -one for front and one for back -same size as the bearings so you will have equal pressure coming from front and back, put a long bolt thru the holes in the bearings with one of the large washers on each end. put a nut on the end of the bolt and begin to tighten. this will pull the bearings together back into their positions without ruining them and gives you equal pressure all around. be careful when you get them tight, they will fit snugly back into place. put it all back together carefully, just like you took it apart. if you labeled everything, you should have no problem putting the puzzle back together. before putting the tub pieces back together, i ran a bead of silicone caulk to prevent leaks. started it back up and runs great! fixed it for total of $72 (including shipping charges), which is a lot cheaper than buying a new washing machine. it is tedious and somewhat challenging, but if you are in any way mechanical, you shouldn't have any problems.

Followed the instructions that a fellow DIYer posted in PartSelect and a few I watched on Youtube. Pull out the detergent drawer, remove the back screws, slide the top off, unclip the control board, unplug Power & One more switch so that I could move it aside. Take the gasket retention wire off the door gasket & tuck it inside. Remove the screws in the bottom & top. Then slide the front panel, including the door up (not easy) and out. The part received was only the pump motor so I had to take a few pictures before so I knew I got it together right. Remove drain houses, pump screws, slide pump back and remove pump. A few more screws to remove the pump from the housing & replace with new pump. Put it all back together. It works! It only took about 45 minutes

UNPLUG WASHER.Unscrew 4 screws holding silver plate at back of unit. Remove plate to expose inside of unit. Locate drain hose at bottom of washer tub. Hose connects at front drain, bottom of tub, and at rear at the pressure sensor. Front and rear simply slide clamps down by grasping clamp tabs and sliding clamp off connection point. Disconnect from tub bottom by loosening main clamp with Phillips screwdriver and pulling downward. Have a towel handy as there will be water in the hose, and it will pour out when removing it from the unit. Installation is the reverse of removal. ATTACH THE HOSE ASSEMBLY TO THE DRUM FIRST, THEN FRONT, THEN LASTLY REAR. This order is the easiest way, otherwise you will spend extra minutes trying to get the tub connection to seat properly. Plug it back in (duh), then you're good to go for another 4 years or so until another hole wears in the hose. I have performed this repair on 3 different units, with 4 years being the average lifespan of this part.

We drained the water from the washer via the tiny hose/filter located at the lower left corner of the washing machine. The unit was then pulled away from the wall, unplugged and the hoses disconnected. At this time, we used the wet dry vacuum to suction the water that remained in the drain hose. We tilted the washing machine back until the front of the unit was 18 inches or so off the floor. We used the foot stool to hold the washer up in the air so that we could work on the pump. Replacing the pump was as easy as removing a few screws, unplugging the electrical connections and removing the faulty pump assembly from the plastic housing. (Be sure to mark what connector goes in what terminal). Re-assemble. Re-connect. You are ready to go. It took more time to ready the washer than it did to replace the part.