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WC482 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the WC482
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Water leake bottom left of washer
Removed the seal and replaced with new one. Job went very easy. Stop the leake. Thank you.

Claude Miller
Parts Used:
Door Gasket - gray
  • Claude from malden, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Broken Detergent Cup
I removed four philips screws to remove the front door panel. Next I removed the screws holding in the detergent cup. Removed the two electrical wires from the cup release. Reveresed the process to install the new detergent cup.
Parts Used:
Detergent Cup with Gasket
  • John from Anoka, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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The detergent cup would not open during wash cycle
I removed the 4 lower Phillips head screws on the lower inside of the door.(thanks to a tip from Robert) This removed the front panel allowing access to the detergent cup. I removed the 6 screws holding the detergent cup. Removed the old detergent cup and gasket. Installed the new cup and gasket and reinstalled the front panel. Amazingly easy. Now it's on to my stove. I'm hooked on your website
Parts Used:
Detergent Cup with Gasket
  • David A from Covington, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer was not filling with water on the rinse cycle.
I removed the access panel and it was right there. one screw - disconect the wires & it was out. then right back in - access panel on, and done.
Parts Used:
Float Switch
  • Robert from Rochester, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Power cord replacement.
I replaced a broken power cord in my 15+yr old portable maytag dishwasher as it was much less than a brand new one. I also need to change the seal in the door but that will be another day. Anyway, after removing the four screws inside the door with the torque screw driver (t20, I think) , remove the two screws attaching the counter top to the unit and took that off. You get to them from under the top when the door is open. Then remove two screws from the back of the unit. You can now remove the two screws holding the casing in the front of the unit. I think that is all you need to remove the casing and counter top. You now will need to remove a shield from the back of the unit. You will now need to remove four screws holding the front panel that hides the power cord box and other wires. The power cord runs into a small box that you will need to use the small socket to remove the cover. Disconnect the wire nuts and ground wire from the unit. This will release the power cord from the wires of the unit. Using a pair of pliers, pinch the black thing that holds the power cord in place and pull it through the hole it is slid into. You will need to use some force to do this. It took longer to do this than it did to get to that point for me. You must do this again on the side of the unit where the power cord goes through and runs to the back of the unit. Pull the old power cord out of the unit through the holes in the front and side where the black things were holding it tightly. You have removed the old power cord and are ready to install a new cord. Remember to run the power cord through the compartment in the back that it is to be pulled from when you operatate the unit. This is also where the hose comes out from. After running the cord through the back of the unit, through the side hole and into the hole in the front you have to re-install the black things that hold the cord tight. Be sure the cord is not touching the motor. I attached the cord to other wires underneath using duck tape keeping it away from the motor. This will require the pliers again and a little force to get the black thing to slip through the holes and keep the cord tight. It seemed easier for me to put the black thing in before I attached the power cord to the unit matching the colors up with the wires from the unit. This would be a good time to make sure the wires are connected by plugging in the cord and listening for the unit to start. I put the controls on the dry setting to hear the dryer start. After verifying the unit was connected properly, I used the screws that I took out to attach the box over the wires, attach the front panel, attach the rear shield, attach the casing, and counter top, or any other parts you may have taken off. The dishwasher is one!!!
Parts Used:
POWER CORD
  • Donald from Rachel, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Very noisy stuttering when water came on
Had to reuse the original mounting bracket instead of the one that came with the replacement part (held on by 4 screws). Also had to turn each solenoid 90 degrees (a feature of the replacement part) so that I could reuse the original connecting wires. Dishwasher running very quietly now.
Parts Used:
Dual Water Inlet Valve
  • John from Castro Valley, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Belt to stiff to roll onto pulley
150 degrees for ten minutes provided enough flexibility to allow the belt to be rolled around the pulley. The machine has been used successfully since installation.
Parts Used:
Clear Belt
  • John from Los Alamos, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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would not drain
The part was a bit difficult to put on and then I discovered that it still would not drain. It turned out that my drain hose was plugged
Parts Used:
Clear Belt
  • Donald from Lake City, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Space too small to see just where to place belt - Plus the belt had to be put on at the bottom of the dishwasher.
My husband and I both tried to get belt around the pulleys according to directions that came with the belt. The space was just too small to work in. We ended up turning the dishwasher upside down! We could then see what we were doing....My husband finally got the belt on....He did end up with lots of small cuts of his hands from sharp edges. But we were so happy to get it fixed. We had priced new portables dishwashers at six and seven hundred dollars. We were thankful to be able to get the part for our 23 year old dishwasher. It is now working great.
Parts Used:
Clear Belt
  • Shirley from Brewer, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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The dishwasher did not drain
"The order arrived in relatively short order. However, the installation must have been hilarious to any observer. Imagiine an arthritic septuagenerian getting down on the floor and wallowing about fitting a dish washer belt. Hints: 1. Grasp the pulley on the pump with your left hand from under the discharge hose (more room than over the hose) when fitting the belt to the rear of that pulley. 2. Use a hot pad (not an emroidered & quilted one reserved for company) to protect your L forearm from the frame member on the bottom of the machine. Getting up was worse than getting down, but it works! In dishwasher years it's much older than I am."
Parts Used:
Clear Belt
  • Hugh from Avon, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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water leaking at door of dishwasher
based on instructions from previous customers, took off front control and door panel, removed old gasket, replaced new gasket by aligning tabs and pulling through with needle nose pliers, leaking stopped
Parts Used:
Door Gasket - gray
  • JOHN from SLIDELL, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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water leak - tub overflow
remove panel on front to acess float @ float switch.Remove phillips screw to float switch,remove palnut from float shaft with 5/16 nutdriver.Remove float from inside washer.Reinstall new parts reverse order.
Parts Used:
Float Switch
  • walter from salisbury, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The Faucet Adapter was worn out.
Ordered a new Faucet Adapter! Simple
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Faucet Adapter
  • Becky from Stanley, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Wrench (Adjustable)
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A gift portable dishwasher did not have the faucet adapter.
Found the adapter on Parts select through a google search. Unscrewed the existing faucet aerator and srewed in the adapter. The plastic shrink wrap holds the washer and screen in place, so don't open it until you're ready to install. Finger snug does it, only use the pliers to remover the old aerator from the faucet. Normally, I don't use pliers, but both of these parts were round and had vertical serrations to engare the plier teeth.
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Faucet Adapter
  • Norm from Hamilton Square, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Needed a faucet connector
I bought the portable dishwasher on Craigslist, and it didn't have the connector that goes on the kitchen faucet. Ordered it here, got it in a few days, and didn't need any tools - just had to screw it on. Good as gold!
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Faucet Adapter
  • Karen from Lafayette, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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All Instructions for the WC482
91 - 105 of 116