W3S1CWKBWNM (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

I did as I was told (by my wife). Bought the machine from Home Depot - no side vent kit - had them complete the installation today when the kit came.

Opened front of dryer - removed drum - replace all 4 rollers (2 had bad shafts) - replace drum with new belt - reassembled

To install the repair part took about 5 minutes. It took a couple hours to take apart of put back together. Unfortunately the part I replaced was not the problem. I still have no heat. My own fault for not testing the parts before ordering. It seems there is no ignition of the gas for the hot air flow. I would be grateful for any suggestions. The video was FABULOUS...really step by step, screw by screw. Thanks for that. Barb Swenson

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before working on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.

You will need a helper. Dismantle the Dryer: Remove the screws that hold the top cover, front control panel, front door and front panel. Release the V-Belt under the drum. Remove the Drum. Removed and replace the 2 Front roller assemblies - these were completely worn. Replaced the 2 rear rollers (did not replace the rear roller axels as these were more difficult to remove and they were in good shape) and the V-Belt while I had the whole thing open. Use a shop vac and cleaned up the whole unit. It is so nice and quiet now.

Followed the manufacturers instructions to disassemble the washer from the top. There was a video on youtube of a guy who was able to replace his bellows hose from the back, but maybe my arms weren't long enough, I couldn't reach all the way to the front. The washer was pretty easy to take apart, except for taking off the top, where there were 2 extra screws not mentioned in the instructions. Replacing the part was really easy. HERE'S THE MOST IMPORTANT PART: LG DOESN'T MENTION IT IS REALLY HARD TO GET THE CLAMP ASSEMBLY BACK ON THE GASKET WITHOUT A SPECIAL TOOL. You can buy the special LG tool, or you can do what I did (and others on the internet) and buy an $8 "Brake spring spreader" tool at your local auto parts store. Repair was a success. No more water leaking!

Contacted LG customer service, not much help there. Watched a very helpful Utube video on how to find and repair the leak. The video suggested that the most common leak is in the drain hose with bellows. Removed the rear panel and removed the bellows unit using pliers for the clamps and screwdriver for the bellows part. This was pretty easy. The rubber bellows was leaking in the exact same place as the youtube video showed. This is a Design Flaw that LG needs to fix. Ordered the new part and installed the bellows portion of the part first, as the angle for that installation needs to be correct. Then attempted to install the end of the hose (very inaccesible) to the pump drain. Very difficult to position the factory supplied spring clamp with pliers so I purchased a screw-type clamp (using the nut-driver rather than a screw-driver to tighten the clamp was helpful) at the local hardware store and that made my job much easier. Note: My unit is mounted on a pedestal, so it was a little easier to access the part location (about one foot off the floor, rather than at floor level), but it may be that the part should be replaced from the bottom of the unit, which would make it much easier to access. Then I installed the other end of the hose to the drain line using a screw-type clamp. I am 69 years old, and not that flexible anymore, so getting down on the floor to reach inside the unit was difficult. You need patience to do this job and you have to make sure all the clamps are properly installed so you don't start the machine up and end up with another leak. For me, this process was difficult and took more than two hours to complete. Limited access to the area made it more difficult and I hate the factory clamps they use. Overall, the repair costs about $25, compared to the $125 just to come look at the machine, then more money to fix the unit. It was satisfying to complete the repair for a small amount of money, but not sure it was worth the aggravation.

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

Unplugged dryer. Removed front panel. removed nut holding old igniter. Unplugged old igniter, plugged in new igniter, and mounted new igniter with screw using nut driver.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside with the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.

First I just replaced the ignitor on a hunch, (disassembly was easy once I saw the video) I also examined the high limit thermostadt and found it was tripped, so I reset the button. the dryer fired up, but soon the thermo tripped again. I found that I could reach it with my arm placed in the inspection port,( about a 4 inch diameter pop out) make sure you unplug first, find the button near the ignitor, and pop it in. the high limit thermo was only holding a few seconds, so I decided to replace it, and did a "shot-gun" approach, replacing all thermos and thermisters at once, only about 35 bucks delivered...BTW, PartSelect shipped them to me at the speed of light.....one day ! Ireplaced all thermos and did and extra scrulpoulous cleaning of the vent. NOTE: it is completely possible that ahe only problem was a reduced vent capacity cmbined with summer heat leading to tripping the high limit thermo....however the thermo was tripping waaaay too easil in my opinion. Anyway, I celebrated doing 10 loads of piled up laundry, and basking in the glory of my wife's admiration for saving a $1000. appliance replacement. "how did you know how to do this honey?" "yoir so smart" (i did'nt tell her about the PartSelect video)

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the back bracket holding the top on. Then the top will slide back and lift off. Next I removed the screws holding the control panel. Removed the door. Removed all the screws holding the front cover on. Removed the lent shoot. Manually rotated the tumbler. Checked both rollers in the front. Found one with the flat spot in it. Removed and replaced it.

This was a repair from a repair. It started as a conversion to LPG, in the process the igniter broke. The parts arrived quickly and we were able to get it back together and the wife is happy. Thanks.