W3P7CWUBWVM (ABWEUUS) LG Washer - Instructions

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

With a thin flat screwdriver I was able to pry out the old door switch, I replaced it with the new door switch, pushed back in dryer and so far is working since I installed a month ago.

Part showed up in 2 days and repair took 2 min. Very easy. Thank you!!

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

Called LG on the phone and they gave the button presses for diagnostics, which then gave the HST code, saying the Humidity sensor was bad.
The part was described as the Humidity sensor module. Actually it's just the wire leads for the sensor which must be electronic and only accessible by disassembling the dryer. There were descriptions about cleaning the wires, perhaps because some people use dryer sheets which cause a buildup on the wires and prevent them from doing their job. I use wool balls and have no buildup on my wires and replacing them did not fix the sensor, because the module accessible inside the dryer is not the moisture sensor, but only the wire leads.

Removed the top, the control panel and the door. The heater assembly came out thru the front, without having to remove the drum. Easy replacement

Followed the instruction on video.was great after three parts now is OK .we have heat.still cheaper than having it service.

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

Exchange

Repair was easy, but the part does not come with directions. It is pretty self explanatory if you are used to taking things apart and fixing them. Otherwise there are YouTube videos you can pull up. Dryer runs like it is new again though and it was way cheaper than buying a new dryer.

Just unscrewed the original lock and screwed the new one on it was very easy

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

Removed the two screws holding the dryer door strike/locker assembly in place, removed the old and put the new in its place and replaced the screws.

Due to limited space I was only able to pull the washer forward enough to disconnect the water lines and unplug the power When removing the screws that hold the top on there are two on each side you need to remove the bottom one to allow the top to slide back a few inches, once the top is removed, then remove the power leads to the valve, there is one screw that holds the bracket that mounts the hot and cold water valves. Remove the water lines noting which on get to each port on the valve The valves are set in a slot on the bracket. Carefully remove and replace the valve and replace it. Remount the valve bracket connect the hoses and the water lines. Replace the cover and your done. ( I did run the machine before replacing the cover just to make sure there were no leaks)