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W225LM Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the W225LM
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water filling up inside washer from a steady drip
First, I unplugged the washer.

then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one.
( just in case I lost track of which wire went where.)

I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and
a "H" our of the back wall of the washer,
to assist with hose installation.

I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.

Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Doug from Alexandria, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Left hinge pin & hinge sheared
Hving read some of the tips in regards to this repair I set out with equal parts of confidence & apprehension. The advice of shifting the tub toward the hinge to be removed is in itself the key to the whole procedure. After having done so & wedging a dust pan handle between the tub & frame to first one side & then the other, I removed the entire lid with the hinge & hinge pin assys. attached as ther is not sufficient clearance to slide a servicable hinge pin from a hinge when only one hinge has beeen removed. With the lid completely removed access to the hinge pin(s) is straight forward. I suggest screwing & unscrewing the fastening screw into a new hinge assy before mounting the hinge onto the machine & also using an offset philips screwdriver or ,as I did, a 1/4" drv. ratchet with a #2 philips apex bit which allows for a better feel & more control over the upside down blind operation of removing & replacing the fastening screw into the hinge assy. Hope this helps. Tom
Parts Used:
Lid Hinge Pin Lid Hinge Screw
  • Tom from Camp Verde, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Lid hinge broken
The hardest part was finding the model # on the back. I couldn't move the washer out...so used a mirror! I used a putty knife to pop the 2 fasteners securing the top. Tilted it up & proped with a plastic clothes hanger. Unscrewed the one screw which is easy to get to with the top up. Replaced the hinge with the 1 screw. Closed the top. Gave the broken hinge to my wife as an early Mother's Day present.
Parts Used:
Lid Hinge
  • Elwyn from Kansas City, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Wind blew lid off washing machine while being moved
First I lifted the top of the washer to get access to the screws that held the hinges in place, unscrewed them, removed the broken hinges and put the new ones on, replaced the screws and closed the top. It was very easy. I was amazed that I could still get replacement parts and at such a great price, less than $15.00 with shipping!
Parts Used:
Lid Hinge
  • Lisa from West Branch, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Makes squeaky noise when stop spinning
I checked the belt 1st. It didn't look like it could be the problem, but it needs replacement anyway. Replacing belt is very easy, this 1 is at the bottom of the washer.

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move it away from the wall.
3. Tilt washer back & support the bottom front with lumber.
4. You can see the belt looped around 3 pulleys. Water pump in the back. The motor is in the right front & is spring loaded.
5. Grab the motor pulley & push it back as far as it will go, & remove the belt from it.
6. Do the reverse to install new belt.

There is a Brake Rotor & Lining Assy on this washer. I looked up the part on this web site, sure enough somebody else had this same problem. Part is on order. If this is not the fix, I will revise this posting later.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 51 inches long
  • Hing from Toms River, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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actuater broke and I replaced it in 5 minutes
unscrewed screw holding old actuater in and replaced it whith the new part.
Parts Used:
Lid Switch Actuator - Black
  • Thomas from Clayton, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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I have hard water and it ruined the valve so the water would not shut off
Popped the top of the washer up and on the right rear of the washer was the valve. Disconnected the hoses and removed the screws, drop the new valve in and replaced the hoses and it was done. Total time was less then 5 minutes. Any one can do it!
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Cindy from McGregor, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Pulley broke
First unplug the washer machine..then lean it back to get room to the motor pulley I didn't have to remove the motor just tap the pulley with a rubber hammer until it was released I did put a little of dish detergent for easier removal an did the same to install the new pulley then slightly tap in with rubber hamer ..
Parts Used:
Plastic Motor Pulley
  • Jose from WATERBURY, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Unit quit spinning
Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that everything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself
Parts Used:
Washer Brake Stator Snubber Ring Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
  • Leo Joseph from BENSON, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Pump was frozen
Replacing the pump with the new pump was very easy for me, because of my degree in Mechanical engineering, so I am use to dealing with pumps, engines, gears,etc. However, my wife watched me do the entire job and she is now able to replace this part in the future. The design of the Maytag is very simple to repair, and for that I am very greatful that we can order the parts and do the repairs ourselves withhout having to call a repairman. This was our first problem after 6 years of smooth operations by this washer.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley
  • Frank from Sugar Land, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Washing machine was noisy (metal on metal) after the tub filled up and the motor engaged for the wash cycle.
I unplugged the machine, tipped it back slightly and rested in on a gallon paint can. I inspected the under side and manually advanced the fan belt to hear if I could hear the noise at the water pump. The pump pulley and shaft was worn and there were metal shavins (small) on surface of pulley.

Then I removed the belt from the pulley, rested the machine back to normal position, removed front panel (two sheet metal screws on inside top), removed the water pump hoses (htere is water int he hose & pump assembly so you will get some water on floor.

Then I removed the pump and ordered a new one. The installation was the reverse, machine works like new and the washer tub spins better than ever during the final rinse and spin, since the worn water pump was binding and stressing the machine.

Thanks to Part Select - Your website is awesome and your service instructions and user advice gave me the confidence to do the repair myself. I saved $150 - $250 for the repair.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley
  • GARY from Montvale, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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loud squeal when stopping and leaking
Removed the inner basket and outer tub to replace the gasket and rubber seal. just had to remove about a dozen screws to get it out.

Tipped the machine up to replace the belt.
The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.
Parts Used:
Tub to Housing Gasket Tub/Housing Seal
  • Michael from Carmel, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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No belt and no motor gear
Pop the top of the washer and use the nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the frontpanel on. Use the nutdriver for two more screws holding the plastic motor cover on. Use nutdriver for the two BIG screws holding the motorplate to the washer frame. After this, I literally beat/chiped/sawed the old motor geat off. Once that was done, I put the new one on; had to use a hammer to knock it all the way on (try not to damage the clips). Reassemble everything. Flip washer over and place bet around two smaller gears. Rotate main tub gear to feed belt on. Make sure you use the nutdriver to loosen/tighten the motor positioner screws in the slots if things aren't working here.
The only really hard thing was taking the old motor gear off.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 51 inches long
  • Matt from Hoboken, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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tub overflowed
Back of this washer did not remove, so we had to go in through the top--more restricting space. As you remove the old electrical metal contacts (two each of white and red), pay close attention to where they connect properly. Best to mark them so as not to confuse how to place new contacts. Also, we disconnected a white plastic hose on opposite side of top which determines load size and amount of water, so be sure to look for this.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Ellen from Wilcox, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
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The washer was jumping all over the place and leaking water during the spin cycle
I took out the agitator first, then I took out the inner tub, next I took out the outer tub, and last I took out the transmission assembly. After replacing the snubber I put the transmission assembly back on, then the new outer tub and next the inner tub. Last I put the agitator back on.
Parts Used:
Plastic Outer Tub Screw Snubber Ring
  • Elmer from Fort Campbell, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the W225LM
91 - 105 of 378