W225 - Instructions

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

loved that I was able to get just the part i needed and not the whole shaft

Removed top cover, then removed front cover. Put washer on its side and removed belt. Located motor, noted orientation of retainer wire(v shaped wire that clips motor to frame), removed motor, noted wiring diagram on paper before removing wires from termination points, removed wires. installed new motor, installed wiring, installed wire clip. Turned washer on side and installed new belt. Turned machine on and it worked great.

1. Disconnected the electrical cord from the socket & the hose lines from the faucets.
2. Pulled out the washing machine from against the wall to make room for working.
3. Opened the back of the control cabinet by removing the 5 screws.
4. Disconnected the wiring ( making sure to identify all connections and color of wiring ) from the control cabinet and pulled through the opening on the cabinet top.
5. Popped the lid open from the front of the washer using a screwdriver by prying it open and removed the hinge lid from the cabinet top.
6. Removed the control cabinet from the cabinet top, disconnected the safety latch from the cabinet top.
7. Removed the water inlet guide & a vacuum hose from the cabinet top.
8. Removed the hinge brackets from the back of the washer which holds the cabinet top in place.
9. Removed the hinged lid from the cabinet top..
10. Installed new hinges on to hinge lid .

Installed new cabinet top in reverse order as above.

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.

Bought a pair for needed door hinges for replacement. Found a DIY video on You Tube showing technique to replace. Door removal was a bit awkward but hinge replacement and door reinstallation was as detailed in video. Could not nor would not have tackled this project without video. Premium quality parts sent and received within days of ordering. Wife happy therefore so am I.

Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that everything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself

Top loader May Tag washer with open bottom. After research I presumed it needed a new belt, or Transmission, which runs 3 pulleys under the open bottom. After tipping the washer back for inspection, saw oil splatter underneath. Removed old belt by turning largest pulley on Transmission while pulling the belt "off" the edge. Belt was aged, Stretched and worn. Belt and all 3 pulleys were oily causing slippage. The main large Drive pulley on the Transmission shaft, has a plastic snap on grease cup at it's center. I snapped it off with screw driver. The cup was partially full of thinned old grease causing the oily mess. There's a C clip inserted in a groove on the end of the drive shaft holding the pulley on. Removed the C clip with screw driver tip and slid off the Drive pulley. The Center of the pulley contains a plastic ratchet assembly that operates the washer tub cycle to rotate and stop and repeat. The ratchet assembly falls right out, and in the end of transmission is a Thrust washer which can be pulled of easily also. I Cleaned all 3 pulleys with De-greaser and finally with Rubbing Alcohol to dry the pulley surfaces. Then cleaned and removed all grease from the plastic ratchet assembly parts and cleaned them. Then I Repacked everything including the Drive shaft with "heavier" Grease that would not break down so easy. Reassembled everything in reverse and installed on the shaft. Snapped the C clip back on to hold pulley back in place and then the Grease cup, which just snaps back in place with a push. Installed new drive belt in the same manner it was removed, only in reverse by turning the pulley, and pushing the belt "on" over the edge of the pulley. Problem fixed and washer works perfect again with Noticeably better operation through all washer cycles.

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

First, I unplugged the washer.

then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one.
( just in case I lost track of which wire went where.)

I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and
a "H" our of the back wall of the washer,
to assist with hose installation.

I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.

Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.

First i unscrewed the bottom latch to check inside the maching, i then disconected the vertical style pump with pulley from its position and i discoverd a huge crack that was made by a loose pulley. After that i ordered another pulley from this web site easaly installed the pulley and now my maching works like new. The part was less than 50 bucks i saved over 200 bucks by not going out and buying a new machine.

On a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the most difficult), I would rate this a 2 or 3. It is just a matter of knowing how to access the pump. First I unplugged the washer. Then used putty knife to push in clips to lift up top of washer (the clips are located about 1 inch in from each side). Used socket to remove the two screws holding on front panel. Disconnected the two hoses from pump using pliers to squeeze clips (be sure to have cup or bowl handy because water will come out of the hoses). Lifted up washer and removed belt from pump. Used socket wrench to remove pump and replace with new one. Reattached hoses and belt. Reattached front panel and closed the top of the washer. Everything was easy to access.

Hving read some of the tips in regards to this repair I set out with equal parts of confidence & apprehension. The advice of shifting the tub toward the hinge to be removed is in itself the key to the whole procedure. After having done so & wedging a dust pan handle between the tub & frame to first one side & then the other, I removed the entire lid with the hinge & hinge pin assys. attached as ther is not sufficient clearance to slide a servicable hinge pin from a hinge when only one hinge has beeen removed. With the lid completely removed access to the hinge pin(s) is straight forward. I suggest screwing & unscrewing the fastening screw into a new hinge assy before mounting the hinge onto the machine & also using an offset philips screwdriver or ,as I did, a 1/4" drv. ratchet with a #2 philips apex bit which allows for a better feel & more control over the upside down blind operation of removing & replacing the fastening screw into the hinge assy. Hope this helps. Tom

The heating element is held in place by two phillips screws which were rusted fairly tight, visible at the back of the oven. I tapped my screwdriver with a hammer as I loosened them. (I would have used liquid wrench if the hammer did not work) Two wires are fastened to the element by two clips that you can slide off by hand. Slip the wires off the old element and onto the new element and install the two screws and you are done.