VLSR1090G6WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part.
Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am
83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws
take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW
DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY

old one out, new one in. new one is seated, but not a perfect match bracket to hold hose in washer does not fit on this replacement hose properly. But I feel comfortable with the result & use

removed back off washer, disconnected pump from washer tub, remove old pump in about 5 min, then installed new pump in less than 5 min. washer is working just fine wife thank me it was about 2 wks since the washer was down.

Very easy with your great instructions in my email. took the wires off,took the hoses off,then the two bolts,put the new one on and reasembled the hoeses wires and bolts. put the front back on and that was that. Your company is great thanks for all your help.If I ever need help again with any off my appliances i will call on you,agin thank you very much. Frank!

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

Removed the front of the washer, screwdriver used. Disconnected the electrical wires from the pump. Removed the two bolts from the water pump bracket, socket wrench used. Disconnected the pump to exterior drain hose, plumbers wrench used to loosen tension clips. Drained all the water out of the washer tub, not easy not very neat. Disconnected the washer tub to water pump drain hose. Removed debris that was in the hose. Then connect the hoses to the new pump, bolted the bracket back in place, put the front of the washer back on.

Without any research, I imagined it might be the old hoses, so I bought new ones. When attaching them, I saw the threads were stripped at the washer end of the hot water hose. I bought the valve, and unscrewed the nuts holding the console in place. The clamp on the exit hose from the valve was a bit tricky, it was hard to hold it squeezed open while simultaneously maneuvering the hose off the valve. When I received the valve it looked like the electrical connections might be very complicated, but in fact it was very simple, a single plug.

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

This site and buying experience WOWED ME!!! After realizing what happened, I searched how to open up a washer, since I had never done it before. My search brought me to your site, which had an excellent 'how to' video for my exact problem of replacing the pump! I ordered the part, which was delivered to my door in LESS than 24 hours! Unfortunately, there was undrained water in the washing machine so while undoing the clamps on the old pump, the water drained on my kitchen floor, so beware of that issue. Because of the positioning of the pump, the clamps were a little tricky to redo, but completed without too much difficulty. I also had to 'unplug' (with a coat hanger snake)the drain tube connecting the pump to the back of the washing machine so it could flow to the outside drain pipe. This was the best internet buying experience I have ever had! Thank you so much! I fixed a 15 year old washing machine for about $40.00!!! (And I am a 57 year old grandmother ;-) Woohoo!!!

I followed previous parts select customers advice exactly, of replacing the dampening straps, and it worked perfectly. Thanks-A-Million!

Remove top of washer control panel to access filler. My hands are not large by t was difficult removing the old part and carefully trying not to drop mounting screws. Had to loosen screws twisting threads with pliers. No access for regular Phillips screwdriver. Patience is needed.

Popped cap off of agitator and used 12inch extension with 3/8 socket to remove bolt. Pulled off agitator and turned upside down. I then used 4 flathead screwdrivers to depress tabs on old coupling and flipped agitator back over and used a long screwdriver to push old coupling out. Flawless! Wiped everything down and pushed new agitator coupling right in place! Perfect! Put everything back together and washer is back in business!! Thank you PARTSELECT!!

replaces as per video. Very helpful

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.