TU950QPXS2 Whirlpool Trash Compactor - Instructions

The part was suppose to come with instructions, but did not. However, it was easy after reading the comments on-line, and discovering that the front cover had to be removed in order to expose the whole switch and wires. I did drop one of the mounting screws down the front of the compactor and was not able to recover it. So, I had to make a trip to the hardware store for a replacement. They couldn't match the remaining screw but I found 2 similar ones with lock washers and nuts that worked just fine. I saved a $90 service charge and probably double the cost of the switch by doing it myself.

At best it is advisable to load just one at a time and covered with newspaper etc., In this case someone put in three bottles with out covering with heavy newspaper etc.and for some reason one rode out and to the side. Crushing the side of the metal trash container. This pinned the container against the side of the compactor body and behind the front rails. Using a lot of pulling and some nifty pry bars and two hours of prying and squeezing we got the container out( see attached photo )The replacement container was ordered on a Sunday night and arrived Tuesday morning. Removal of the existing front panel ,foot pedal and door switch was easy and installation on to the replacement container was a breeze with a little orientation required to line up the switch and pedal in the right configuration. 20 min tops and that was with five kids helping ;)

Replaced drive gears.They arrived in a kit from Parts Select with instructions.They fit perfectly and the compactor works like new.

Replaced the limit switch. This did not alter the problem. Took off the On/Off/Start switch and dissasembled. I found the the Start switch was stuck in the on position. I reassembled the switch mechanism assuring that the Red "ON" indicator moldings were correctly positioned and reassembled everything. The Compactor now works properly. Need to add "Check the Start switch" to diagnosis.

Ordered new door hinge and used available You Tube Video. to assist in installation. Not a very difficult job, however that did not solve the problem. Then in an attempt to complicate the solution, I again removed the door and took the entire inside cover off. The entire latch mechanism fell on the floor. It took a very long time to determine how the latch mechanism was placed. Finally with the help of a neighbor the latch was placed back into position, the glass and screen replaced and finally all the plastic molding seated and screwed tight. Guess what the latch now seated correctly and appears to work correctly.

Kitchenaid had a problem with its footswitch. It was a flimsy piece of metal that pushed in a switch. The flimsy metal part is no longer produced, and they have a replacement kit. The instructions provided that you pull the frame apart, but I was able to do it by coaxing out the old switch, reconnecting and inserting the new switch, and then drilling and screwing in the new switch actuator. The old switch activated the unit when pushed in, the new switch activates the unit when let out.

First off....I was surprised at how inexpensive the drive gear kit was. As others commented, they fit perfectly and I believe will fit other manufacturer's models since there is a lot of cross branding. The Drive gear replacement itself would be easy as described by others so I won't repeat that. However replacing the plastic tubular "ram stops" on the screw drive was a challenge since there are no "helpful hints" in the blog. To do that you have to work from the top and sides. Needed to remove the two gear cams where the screw drives are seated on the bottom of the unit, then (working with the unit on it's side)you have to raise the whole (heavy) plunger that is attached to the drive screws high enough to remove the old tubular ram stops and bushing and replace. To raise the plunger assembly out from the top you have to remove the sheet metal top plate of the unit....and....importantly remove the control panel on the front where the switches are. There is a limiter switch that has a metal arm which engages a plate on the plunger to stop the unit when it reaches the top. You need to remove that switch to be able to raise the plunger assembly high enough to get the new parts on the screw drive. Put all that back together and then go on to the gear replacement as described by others which was straight forward. Very messy job with all the grease and garbage residue. I am pretty handy figuring these things out, and there may be an easier way, but next time I will call a pro or replace the whole compactor.