TGF317ESC Tappan Range - Instructions

Followed your video and it was not hard at all

YouTube video I used was for a newer version of the same model stove. Door did not have latches to remove it. It was fairly easy getting to the old igniter but a bit of a struggle getting to unplug it, as the connector was behind a small metal shield in the bottom left corner of the oven. Because I couldn’t remove the oven door, it made it more difficult to undo the screw holding it in. I finally did, and from that point it went smoothly. I was worried that I was going to access it from the back, but I didn’t need to. I installed the new one, turned gas back on, moved the stove back to position, and turned on the oven. Very happy to have succeeded, adding a few more years to the stove and saving money for the installation of the igniter.

After diagnosing the problem, I entered the Tappan Model #, found the part needed, and ordered from Part Select. On receipt (2 day delivery), I followed the instructions enclosed with the ignitor, and within 30 minutes, had everything up and running. Thanks PART SELECT!

AS YOU DESCRIBED IN YOUR YOU-TUBE VIDEO, THE OVEN IGNITER WOULD GLOW BUT THE OVEN WOULD NOT LIGHT. YOU EXPLAINED THAT THE PROBLEM COULD STILL BE THE IGNITER AND SO I ORDERED A NEW IGNITER AND THEN WATCHED YOUR VIDEO ON HOW TO ACCESS AND REPLACE THE NEW IGNITER AND THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM. I ONLY HAD TO CUT THE OLD WIRES ON THE OLD IGNITER AND MATCH WIRES WITH THE NEW IGNITER USING THE CERAMIC WIRE NUTS SUPPLIED, AND I WAS BACK COOKING AGIN. THANKS.

moved the stove forward and removed old cord by uncruing two small screw and on ploged the all and replaced with the new one.

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

open oven door remove bottom of oven then remome the metal cover over the burner to expose the ignighter remove 2 screws that hold it to the bracket. the two wire's that come out of the ignighter run down under the bottom oven pan, i removed the bottom front cover by lifting up and then pulled out, then i could see the wires i removed the wire nuts and pulled old wires off and removed old ignighter. i pulled off the insulator covers from the old one and slid them on the wires of the new ignighter then i fished the wires back down and and attachted them with the wire nuts, then reasembled the rest of the oven. woks great!

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place.I then pulled the element out and cut the wires.I used wire nuts to put the new wirers on and put it back in place with the two screws.I tried it and it worked perfect.

The repair was simple - I first needed to test the original igniter with a circuit tester. Once I determined that the part was bad, I simply removed it and replaced it with a new one from Partselect. It was a matter of simply unplugging a few wires and splicing the new igniter in with wirenuts. Fairly simple.

I removed the screws holding the door together,removed the broken panel and replaced it with the new glass
The part fit correctly and the re-assembly was easy.

CUT THE WIRES ON OLD IGNITER AND WIRE NUT THE WIRES OF THE NEW IGNITER TO WHERE I CUT THE OLD ONE OFF.

Removed racks,oven bottom(2 screws) and heat deflecter. Slide heat sleeves 10 inches away from old igniter. Cut wires one inch longer than the length of the heat sleeves, from the old igniter. Cut the new wires to match old wire length. Replace old igniter. Slide sleeves up to new igniter. Wire nut ends-done deal. It was hard working over the oven door,but I am old. Good luck

Removed oven door. (two screws)
Removed racks.
Removed oven floor. (two finger screws)
Removed diverter (V) tray. (one nut)
Removed small panel @ left lower back of oven
(1 screw) to access elect. power disconnect.
Disconnected power.
Removed element (two square drive screws)
Snipped and stripped old wires, connected new
with ceramic wire nuts supplied.
Installed new element, reversed proceedure.
Oven lights in 10 seconds. Wife happy!
Probably 40 minutes, could do it again in15-20
once you know what tools to lay out.

Turned the gas and the electricity off to the gas range. Took the two large screws out in the back of the range holding on the first pan. Have to look for them. Took off the single nut holding on the second pan. Used nut drive #10 to take off nuts. Be careful you do not lose them. Took off inoperative unit. Cut wires to unit. Stripped wires which connect to range. Put new unit on and tightened nuts with nutdriver. Spliced wires together and put on wire nuts securely. Taped them to the wires. Put the second pan back, then the first pan. Turned on gas and electricity to test.
Worked fine. Found that the old unit was cracked and had a piece missing. Must use flashlight. Be safe.

first i removed the bottom of the oven [inside the oven] ,the part was right there,i removed 2 screws and unpluged the wires,then i cut the wire ends off the old part and used the wirenuts that came with the new one to hook them to the new part,then put it back in place,put the screws back in put the bottom back in and was done