TFB26PPDABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

instalation was very easy - but the part was 3/4 inch to long and a 1/32 inch to wide.Trimmed it with the "faithfull"
Dremel and it works!The instalation part of the "job" was less then 10 min.

The water dispenser on my GE refrig started leaking for about 5 seconds after release of the switch. I replaced the filter and the combination ice/water solenoids. Though this did not solve my problem I did troubleshoot more. I located the water reservoir behind the vegetable drawer. The reservoir mount had broken off. The reservoir had flipped so the water connection was no longer at the top. This was the cause for the continual leak. After mounting the reservoir correctly, the water leak stopped.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Removed the screws holding the faceplate. Then couldn't change out the auger so needed to remove all of the other screws in the unit and fully disassemble the icemaker unit. Should have marked the parts as I took them apart as I needed to find a parts diagram on-line to reassemble. Not sure that I put them back together right as the unit will not dispense whole ice cubes as it did previously.

Propped the door up with wood so we could change it without removing the whole door.
Removed &Replaced the cam and bracket quite easily. It did require 2 people, one to help hold the door while the other did the work.

removed old auger; replaced it with a stainless steel auger

Unplugged electrical and turned off water at source. Removed back cover of refrigerator. Removed one bracket screw holding water valve. Pulled element out six to nine inches and disconnected water line to the unit. Removed electrical and water lines from old valve. Marked each line for easy reassembly of new valve. Turned water back on and tested for leaks. The whole process was very easy. Service from PartSelect .com was very good.

The icemaker arm disconnected from the metal frame. This caused the icemaker to cycle and the heater to come on and stay on until the plastic parts melted causing a mess and stink. This action melted the ice and then the water fell through the frozen items in the freezer and refreezed in the lower portion. OK, I remover the dead icemaker and tossed it away. I installed the new icemaker and the wiring harness didn't fit right (way to long). I retrieved the old icemaker and removed the wiring harness from it. I removerd the new ice maker and installed the old wiring harness to the new icemaker. I then installed the new icemaker, plugged it in and turned on the power. No water, I ordered the dual solenoid water valve, installed it with difficulty (another story) the turned on the power. I reinstalled the ice bin and found it didn't fit. The icemaker was to low and couldn't be adjusted, 1/4" higher would have been great. I shoved in the bin anyway, I was out of ice for my scotch, and it started making ice.

I started by shutting off the water inlet valve and then unplugged the refrgerator. I then disconnected the tubing leading into the solnoid. Removed the old solenoid, replaced it with the new part reconnectted the tubing and gave it a test run. After about 2 hours we had ice being made again! I then reconnected the bracket to the refrigerator and haven't had a problem since.

I replaced both lower hinges without removing the doors. First a couple of observations. The hinge kit consists of two parts; the lower part (bolted to the case) consists of an “L” bracket with a plastic cam, and the upper plastic cam (attached to the door). For some reason the upper cam is available as a separate part . If both cams are plastic both are worn out. Don’t bother ordering the individual cam. If one hinge is worn out the other probably isn’t far behind. Consider replacing both at the same time. Examine the door check. It is an inverted “T” shaped bracket bolted to the door that also holds the door cam. The crossbar of the T are metal tabs that check the door swing. Way too fragile IMO. On mine the refrigerator side was cracked and broke off when I removed it. Since the stops are the same right and left. I just swapped them when I replaced the hinges. Saved $22. Replacing the hinges without removing the doors. {Warning if this technique goes wrong you will be stuck with a loaded door you can’t open.} Remove the vent grill. Stack three 2x4’s along the bottom of both doors ( 26” is about right ). Shim the door(s) up to compensate for the cam wear. About 1/8”) Use a 5/16 socket to remove the hinge from the case. Pay attention to placement of the shims and spacers. Then remove the door cam and stop bracket. Install the new door cam. Leave the screws a little loose. Replace the lower hinge and tighten the screws. Do both sides. Then carefully remove the shims and 2x4’s. Finish tightening the door hinge screws. Check the door swing. I used this technique twice. One to replace the refrigerator side hinge, then again to replace the freezer side hinge and swap the door checks. There were no problems and I saved the hassle of unloading and removing the doors.

I have just followed the instructions on the youtube video: It is really easy. I did. Thank you

Disassembled ice-maker, noting what screws went where, what direction ice release control arm pointed, and noting how the control arm spring was mounted. The door assembly comes off first followed by the circular assembly that houses the ice door and last grinding arms. It is quite easy see how it comes apart as you look at the screws. Remove the screw holding the back end of the control arm and note the spring position. The control arm needs to be turned to line up notches to pull it thru a faceplate hole while rotating the arm about the "U" that is on the outside of the faceplate in the door housing. There is a retaining clip holding the rotating impeller to remove to complete the dis-assembly. Use vinegar to clean rust out of bin and other parts around the faceplate. Assemble the unit in the reverse order to complete the job.

removed the back of the freezer unit and replaced the defrost heater and thermastat. took the controls out of the produce side and replaced the defrost timer.

First removed the two screws that holds the old ice maker in place. Unplugged it. The freezer compartment was too narrow to allow the unit to slide out or turn in any other direction. Had to also remove the two front screws from the left side ice bin track and swing it down. The door opening was also too tight. Scratched the plastic door jamb putting the new unit in but other than that all is well and functioning well.

Removed everything from the refrigerator door. Removed the screw holding the cover over the top hinge. Removed the two (8mm) bolts holding the top hinge to the refrigator. Removed the door. Removed the plastic grill/cover and the two (8mm) bolts from the lower hinge assembly. Installed the new hinge assembly. Replaced the closing cam (included in the hinge assembly kit) on the bottom of the door. Put the door back on the lower hinge. Installed the upper hinge. Adjusted the door and tightened the bolts on the upper hinge, and replaced the hinge cover. Done!