TCW2013CS1 (ASSEELC) LG Washer - Instructions

The repair went well and your parts are easy to find. This is the second time I have used your services and both times have been great. Your parts are at great prices and your delivery is a lot faster that one would think.
Thank you

pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done

Simply took hose off from inside machine and replaced it with new one. The tore one had a stopper on one end that wrapped to front machine; inside filter compartment. So I put stopper on the other end of new hose and wrapped it to it's holding spot in filter compartment.

Super easy to find the part thanks to their diagrams. This fix was easy but I would definitely use this site again.

found the leak, went to the website, called customer service, ordered the part... $24 later, problem solved. Great customer service and on-line support

Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.

I removed the top off the washer, unplugged from the electrical, removed the three hoses and wiring plugs, removed the two screws holding the valve assembly in place, and replaced the part with the new. It was a very simple swap, and I even found a video on YouTube on how to replace it.

I watched a video of how to replace the pump and it showed taking the top and front off to get to it. I actually found this could be done by removing the back panel from the washer. There were two hose clamps you have to squeeze and slide up and two wires going to the pump. There are three screws holding the pump that need to be removed from the front of the washer. Once these are removed all you have to do is push a tab down and the motor slide right out. The pump assembly can also be reached from the bottom of the washer.

During my troubleshooting, I removed the bottom to access the drain pump. I had to cut some wire ties so that I could make removing the wires easier. After checking the pump and putting everything back together, I determined that the pump itself was bad. Pump impeller should not rotate freely! After receiving new part, I installed it relatively easy. I didn't have to remove the bottom since there was enough room through the access hole. Just make sure to make where wires go before removing old part.

Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.

I unplugged the washer, and removed the top of the washer by removing the two screws securing the top to the washer. You'll find them inside the two plastic pieces on the rear of the top. Remove only the bottom two screws in each plastic piece and slide the lid to the rear a few inches then lift straight up to remove the lid. Disconnect the water hose from the rear of the inlet valve assembly then remove the two screws in the rear of the old water valve bracket that attach it to the washer. Pull the old unit inside the washer and set the new unit on top of the old. Swap over the electrical connections to the new water valve assembly, matching the locations where the connectors were originally. Then swapped over the water lines from the old unit to the new unit using common pliers to compress the hose claps. Finally, attach the new unit to the washer with the two rear screws. Replace the water hose and the top, and the unit is ready to test.

The difficult part was finding the leak since it was very small and the washer was completely wet around the frame at the bottom. After completely drying everything off and waiting an hour-nothing.I had assumed the leak was in the bottom area around the hoses when actually the leak was the cold water valve[top rear] seeping,then dripping on the drum and dripping onto the frame 8 inches away.I ordered the valve about 10:30am online, the next day at 1pm it arrived. Very easy to install in 15 minutes.

Hot water valve was leaking when washer was not in use and flooded floor. Advised owner to replace hit and cold water valve same time since only hot valve was bad. Hot water was easy but cold was difficult because it has the bleach and softener valve attached in one unto with three hoses and three wire connections. The opening at back of machine was small and you must have small hands to replace them. If not, then you have to remove top cover to get to it which is extensive.

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.

new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.