SWWG50N3 (ANSEEUS) LG Dryer - Instructions
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convert from natural gas orfice to LP gas orfice
I did not do the repair I hired the propane company to do it . It was too difficult for me.they removed top & front of dryer .removed & replaced gas orfice reinstall all parts that were removed. Install and test dryer IT cost me $91.59 for labor & $24.65 for the part & shipping.If the dryer had a side access near the gas valve it could have saved me the cost of labor. I could have done it myself.
Parts Used:
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Ronald from MOUNTAIN HOME, AR
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
8 of 9 people
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Drum roller seized up
Handed the parts to my son-in-law he's very mechanically inclined had the job done in 20 minutes
Parts Used:
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chet from WIMAUMA, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
8 of 10 people
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Drum wasn't turning
I took the dryer apart. You have to take the top off, then the door/front off. There are wires & other parts that need to be unhooked as well. A flat tip screw driver can be used to pop the top off. The screws were all phillips. Once you take that all apart, then you can access the drum. I bought the belt because I thought that was what was wrong with it. Turned out to be hair in the drum rollers. Took those all off & put wheel grease on each of them, put new belt on (since I had it LOL) then put it all back together. Make sure everything is lined up correctly otherwise you will have to take it apart & reline (which I had to do)
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!
Parts Used:
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Beth from FROST, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 8 people
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Front dryer bearing was sezied and out of round
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STEPHEN from EAST TAWAS, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
7 of 8 people
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Washer did not recognize the door was shut
I removed the Wire and spring from the tub seal and then removed the seal on the side of the washer that contains the Door switch. I removed the two screws that held the door switch in place while holding the switch with my other hand. Once the screws where out I pulled the switch assembly out thru the gap and removed the wires from old assembly. I then plugged the wires into the new assembly aligned the holes up and put the screws back in the new door switch assembly. I then put the door seal and tub seal holder back on. This took about 15 minutes. I do recomend that you unplug the washer before starting this process.
Parts Used:
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CURTIS from OLIVE BRANCH, MS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
7 of 8 people
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Manufacturer has redesigned the filter and housing, so you have to get the updated parts in a set.
This has taken days to get the updated parts from another major international supplier. You can't just buy the screen or the housing - you have to get an updated set. Unfortunately they were not immediately available from PartSelect.
Parts Used:
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David from ALEXANDRIA, VA
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 8 people
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The lint screen had a broken edge
The lint screen that this company sent was 3x too large. I called to return/exchange it. No one available - go to customer service.
I went to customer service and entered my email address and the order number (while I was looking at the original order1). The email and order number could not be found.
I am still waiting to hear from someone from the company to get a RMA and return label! Will NEVER use this company again.
Vivien Joebchen
I went to customer service and entered my email address and the order number (while I was looking at the original order1). The email and order number could not be found.
I am still waiting to hear from someone from the company to get a RMA and return label! Will NEVER use this company again.
Vivien Joebchen
Parts Used:
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Vivien from CARLSBAD, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
5 of 5 people
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Loud squealing during operation
We replaced the drum belt and the rollers. Everything was very easy and straightforward but took a fair bit of time due to the extensive disassembly required. We followed the video available on the website for the belt replacement, which was very clear and accurate. Unfortunately, the rollers we received used a different attachment method than the OEM rollers which are depicted in the video provided. Instead of attaching from the front with a triangular plastic lock washer, they had to be attached via a nut on the back side of the roller. This required some improvisation and was a little more involved. For the rear rollers, we actually had to remove another panel to access the nuts, which was not described in the video. Nevertheless, we managed to get everything replaced and the dryer is working like it was the day we bought it.
Parts Used:
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Nathaniel from BRIDGEWATER, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 5 people
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Drum bearing had gone bad causing excessive noise
Followed the repair video provided in the order confirmation email. Was easy.
Parts Used:
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Dennis from Manchester, IA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
5 of 6 people
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The dryer had begun squeaking. The squeaking subsided after the dryer heated up.
First of all, I watched the videos provided by this site. I am not a professional appliance technician.
My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit away from the wall.
I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.
My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.
Here is how it went:
I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.
I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.
So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.
Pretty satisfying overall.
My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit away from the wall.
I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.
My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.
Here is how it went:
I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.
I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.
So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.
Pretty satisfying overall.
Parts Used:
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Steven from Albuquerque, NM
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 6 people
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Dryer quit spinning
One of the roller assembly froze up & had a flat spot on it. There for causing the drum not to rotate. Pulled it out replaced the roller & up & running.
Parts Used:
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Peggy from San Bernardino, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
4 of 4 people
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igniter would not light
Initially replaced igniter. Didn't think it was bad though. Read other suggestions on another website. None were the correct diagnosis for my situation. And when I figured it out they did not offer correct part. The dryer thermistor temp sensor (probe sensor) is what I replaced. Found it on Parts Select. I did replace other parts also. But that's the one that ultimately was the issue.
Was not hard at all if one is even a little handy.
Was not hard at all if one is even a little handy.
Parts Used:
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Dave from SAINT JOHN, IN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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No heat
Pull off the top and front of the dryer and reached in and replaced the part it was easy. Had to clean all the dryer out real good with from the lint
Parts Used:
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Brent from HINCKLEY, UT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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making squeaking noise
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Paul from MONTGOMERY, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
4 of 5 people
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no heat
I replaced the thermistor, then the gas ignitor which were easy to get to once the drum was out. The gas is still not igniting so not sure where to go from here. Putting the drum belt back on took some muscle. But then I'm 71.
Parts Used:
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Barbara from CUDAHY, WI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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