SDG109LF99L7 Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

removed cover removed old coils installed
new coils ,test dryer running great .
thanks partselect.

The first thing to do is to check to be sure the vent is clear. The easiest way to see if this is the problem is to pull the dryed away from the vent and let it vent into the room. Once you have determined that the vent is not the issue, take the front cover off and see what is going on on the inside. To remove the front cover first remove the 4 screws on the inside of the upper cabinet to take off the control panel, I was able to gain access to the screws under the front of the control panel that hold the front cover in place. A couple of electrical connectors later the cover is removed. The coils are easily accessed from in front of the burner by removing the 2 screws that hold the small silver cover over the coil. Once the cover is removed, the coils slide off a short shaft and you can replace the coil by swapping the apporpriate electrical connector for the coil being replaced. The coils are alligned with a small white pin so you can't get it wrong. Replace the covers and fire away.

This repair is easy and saves you a lot of money. This is a great web site, easy to identify the parts you need and the delivery is very fast. Nice Job!!!

The diagrams listed online gave me a the information needed to trouble-shoot which part could be broken. It only took two tries to see which part was out but was significantly cheaper than a repairman. The expediant delivery on parts made down-time a minimal. Very pleased with results.

After researching the problem, I thought the solution would be to replace the two terminal coil valve, but wasn't 100% sure it wasn't the 3 terminal coil, so I bought both. the dryer is 13 years old so I thought it deserved new coils. My husband was away for the week and I had about 10 loads of laundry to do. I dreaded the thought of going to the laundromat, so I went ahead and ordered the parts, thinking I would call a handyman to install them once they arrived. However, I found a Youtube video showing exactly what I had to do and thought it looked easy enough. I unplugged the machine, removed the front hatch and the 2 small screws holding the coils in place. I unplugged the old coils, used a vacuum to remove the dust in the area and installed the new coils. I popped them back into place, screwed them in, replaced the hatch, plugged the machine in, and VOILA!!!! A dryer that heats!!!!

removed front cover and turned unit on, igniter would glow red but burner would not start. ordered m series new style coil kit and installed. turned unit on and igniter came on and burner started right away. all thanks to parts select trouble shooting guide.

First I stumbled around on my own trying to figure out the problem then I remembered PartSelect & the info I got to fix the dishwasher. The info given for the dryer pointed to 2 main problems for no heat, tested them with the Ohm meter & ordered the part. We have a dryer again !!

when I see its no gas flame, i deduct the flame sensor and the electric coils not fuction, I order tru partselect and that take me like 30 min. to remplaced those parts.

Repair was easy, remove bottom cover, remove screws that hold coil bracket, remove old coils & slip new ones on & button up. Dryer works fine now.Had the new parts within 3 days. Thanks PartSelect!

Parts Select said 27% chance it was the coils and 26% chance it was moisture sensor. I ordered the coils and it did not fix the problem, my luck. I have now ordered moisture sensor and the next possible part, the cycling thermostat. If one of these solve the problem I will still have much less invested than a repairman would charge.

easy as pie !

This turned out to be easier than I thought. I opened the access door on the front of the dryer after unplugging the dryer and turning off the gas. I reached in just inside the door with a short-handled phillips head screwdriver and removed the two screws holding the two coils in place. The screws were pretty tight and a bit difficult to get loose but after serveral attempts they finally broke loose. Once I removed the plate that covered the two coils they just slipped right off, much easier than I thought. I removed the electrical connections then attached the wires to the new coils and slipped them back on their respective pins. I reattached the "cover", then plugged the dryer back in and turned the gas on and started it up. The flame fired right up, much stronger than before I replaced the coils and of course the flame stayed on. Problem solved. Repair was really pretty simple with the diagnosis being the biggest problem.

The hard part of the repair was the diagnosis. I'd take the front off the dryer, start it up, and the flame would fire up. I'd put it all together, start it, hear the flame start, leave, and it would still be running 4 hours later with the clothes wet. Discovered that one of the gas valve coils would work cool and show connectivity, but would stop working shortly after starting. To check the flame and remove the front, remove the door - 1 phillips screw in each hinge, then jiggle up and down pulling away from the dryer. Then, two screws on the opposite side. Facing the opening, grasp front and pull toward you to swing it down. You can temporarily put the door back with the front off while you start it to watch the flame cycle. On regular heat, the flame will run pretty much continuously - in my case, it would start, run for about 1 minute then stop. I assumed it was cycling, but it really runs longer than that. Coil replacement was easy - unplug the dryer, pry off the electrical connectors, remove the two screws on the left which hold the retainer containing the coils Then pull the coils straight up and replace with new ones. The one with three connectors is in front; the one with two connectors in the back. There are plastic tabs on the coils which fit into holes on the retainer. Reassemble in reverse order. To confirm diagnosis, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the coils. The front coil has continuity between the center connector and each of the side connectors. The back coil has continuity between the two connectors. If you're not getting a reading at 1k ohms, it's probably an open coil and needs replacement.

Checked the resistor to confirm it was good. Removed the two screws that are accessible after you pull the lint screen out. Use puddy knife to release the two plastic clips that hold the top on. The top will pop up like car hood. You have to pull up on it with steady pressure. I used a plastic puddy knife to prevent scratching anything. Prop top up so it does not fall back down and strike your head or fingers. On each side inside the housing there is a sheet metal screw that holds the front of the dryer on. Before you remove them unplug the door switch wire. As you get these off you will notice that the whole front is loose and the drum looks like it will fall out. It may if you mess with it. Gently tip the front away from the dryer housing and drum assembly. After the front is out about 5 inches pull up and the bottom can be moved away out of the small hook clips. Set it aside. The burner assembly is on the lower left. The coils are there remove the sheet metal screws and lift it up. Remove them one at a time. Notice the small locate pin and position the coil in the same orientation assemble in reverse. The door is tricky to get back on. Don't forget to unplug before doing any work. This can be done without disconnecting the gas service.

Unplug electric, open top, take off front, with a small Phillips screw driver remove two screws securing the coils, remove one coil at a time, unplug and replace with new coil, secure with metal bracket and reinstall front and top and your done.

Opened the top, removed the front panel. Supported the drum with my foot while I replaced the coils. I used a very short screwdriver so I would not have to remove the drum.