SCE30600B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Very easy. 1. Turn off power to oven. 2 move the adjustable grills out to gain better access. 3. There are two phillips head screws that hold a bracket to the back of the inside oven. Unscrew both screws. 4 pull the bake element out about 6". This exposes the two electrical connections. 5. Use a plier and wiggle the slide on connector off of the old bake element. 6. With your fingers, slip the old connectors onto the new bake element. 7. Slide the element and wires back in the insulated pocket. 8. Screw both screws back in. 9. Turn on power and make your wife back you chocolate chip cookies just to "test". Sit in an easy chair and enjoy your cookies. If this took longer than 30 minutes inclding baking the cookies, it took you too long. If the cookies are not good, replace the wife. May take a little loger though :)

Turned off the breaker to the stove and removed the 4 screws under the control panel. The trim strip and the end caps did not have to be removed. The control panel was lowered just enough to clear the upper edge and then tilted forward so the connectors could be disconnected. Two screws holding the display in place were removed and the new display swapped out. Reassembly was disassembly in reverse. (My wife appreciates having a bright display again.)

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

I had an electrician do it. The instructions were horrible. He followed the instructions from your web site. The cooktop was not on an island so he could not remove all the screws to release the top so he worked with the top propped up. When he finally got the connections on, the small burner would not work only the large outer burner is working. He went on the computer to see if he could get more information but was unable to find any information.

The range had to be pulled away from the wall to access all of the retaining screws. Once all the screws were removed, the top was easily lifted away, allowing easy access to the clock unit. Three wire connectors were also easily disconnected, and the clock was secured by only two accessible screws. Reassembly was straight-forward; the only difficult, and time-consuming part was sliding the range back against the wall, as tolerances were tight. The repair took 45-60 minutes and the clock shines brightly!

I removed the 4 screws that hold the control assembly to the range and observed that the clock assembly/control board appeared easy to remove.

Ordered the replacement board and it came a day sooner than the shipping I paid for. Only took about 10 minutes to take the control assembly off again and install the new.

There were no instructions with the part....the ribbon connection to the board was a little tricky to figure out...when I first released the clamps that held the ribbon to the board and pulled the ribbon out, I thought I damaged it....never seen a connection like this.

The range works fine now but it should be noted that this part is the logic control board for the entire range. The board malfunctioned over a period of time. First time, the entire oven shut down in the about half way through the preparation of Thanksgiving meal a few years ago. I couldn't bring it back to life and luckily, we had another oven to finish the turkey.

Next, we had trouble with the electronic pilots on the burners. You would turn the knob for one burner and it would attempt to light another burner.

Then the oven would not shut off when the Cancel/Off button was pressed. Would have to go and trip the main breaker to turn off the oven!

This replacement part cost $126 which is a bargain considering a new oven would cost over $2000. And it works great now. But I don't trust this appliance and I get this feeling that I threw good money after bad.

However, my experience with PartSelect was great and I will use them again. I just hope I don't have to spend more money on this applicance.

Removed glass top from stove by taking out hex screws which secured glass top to stove frame. There are two phillips head screws inside the exhaust as well. Removed two phillips head screws which hold the burner switch in place. With a sharpie pen I marked the color coded wires on the faulty switch. Removed wires from the faulty switch. Replaced new switch using the old switch as a guide to insure that wires were connected properly. Secured new switch and glass burner top reversing above procedure. Problem solved. Note: The white dot on the control knob did not line up properly with the off position. Black out white dot and make a new one in the proper spot on the knob.

Raised the unit and blocked it with 2 boards. TURN OFF THE POWER IF YOU WANT TO COMPLETE THIS REPAIR. Removed the philip head screws for removal of glass top. Remove the corner screws on switch end. Remove screws holding the switch. Remove screws holing the bracket for all switches. Lift and roll gently to get at wiring. Follow the directions for moving wires from old switch to new switch. MOVING WIRES IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP. Reverse your procedure to put back together and when finished remember to turn on the power.

1. Remove four screws on metal panel between top and lower oven doors. Pull the panel forward. You may need to open the top door partially to ease removal of panel.
2. Reach behind panel and unplug wire connector from old switch.
3. With panel free, squeeze ears on old switch and push through opening to remove.
4. Insert new switch in to hole and push from front to seat the switch. BE CAREFUL NOT to mess with the ears--if you try to splay them out (to better seat the switch) the switch will come apart.
5. Hold the panel up to opening to connect the wire harness to the switch.
6. Realign the metal plate to holes for screws and insert screws. (You may have to twist and turn to get the panel lined up.)
Done!

I only had to unscrew two screws to remove the existing element. Unfortunately, when I removed the element I found that the electrical wire connected to it had melted off, so the element is actually still good. I had to strip the wire back and put a new wire connector on. Once that was done I hooked the element back on and screwed it back together.

We simply removed the front knobs, the 8 screws underneath the front panel and dropped down the control panel. We removed two screws holding the assembly and removed the ribbon cable and the two other connectors. We put the new one in and reattached all the cables and reassembled and it worked great. Took 15 - 20 minutes.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike