SCA2000FW General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Removed back screws, pulled cabinet off from the rear, unplugged lamp on upper right side in front reattached two wires, replaced 1 screw to hold lamp in place, reinstalled cabinet and done.

Actually followed prior instructions on your site. Spot on.

Watched Utube instructions on how to do it to it and just did it.

I read your instructions sent with the new latch. Looked at a couple videos online and it was VERY easy to change the part. Thanks so much?

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.

I removed the door, by taking off the grill at the top. Then, take the puddy knife and screw driver and pry the facing off of the door. Please remember to be very careful because this is a sensitive piece. This is the most difficult part. It is a piece of cake after this. This should take about 15 minutes from beginning to end.

We opened the microwave door and essentially with a straight screwdriver worked to "pop" the plastic frame off of the door. We tried to be less aggressive in our efforts and this paid off since we didn't break anything! The area we needed to work on was now exposed to put the new latch in. It took 2 hands rather than 3 to get the new latch attached and then wah-lah, It was done! Microwave works perfectly now. Great alternative to buying a new microwave!

Unplug power source.
Took off plastic panel partially on inside of door with door on its hinge.
Removed latch and spring.
Reinstalled new latch new spring (new part)
Reattached plastic panel to door.
Plug in power.

I verified I had 120 volts going into transformer when the microwave was supposed to be running. The capacitor and HV diode both tested good. Be sure to discharge the capacitor before working in this area. This isolated trouble to either the transformer or magnetron. The windings of the transformer measured good. So ordered a magnetron. It was very easy to swap. There were 4 screws and one connector. This fixed our microwave.

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Phillips screws out of the side; torx screws out of the bottom/back and slide the cover off of the back. The light is not visible but not hard to find: on the top left side mounted on a black plastic base with 1 phillips screw & stud holds other side. You can tell what the base looks like from the new part. GE probably wants you to call them to make the $-ha. Stay clear of any capacitors (shock) or chips (short) & touch the chassis to ground or if a tech, wear a ground strap.

removed broken latch connected to existing spring done in less than two minutes works better than new