RVM1625SJ01 Hotpoint Microwave - Instructions

I just simply took out the two screws that were holding the grille in place and placed the new grille the tightened up the screws.

replaced

Removed the 6 screws that held the cover below my microwave. Unplugged the part, plugged in the new one and I was done. My part arrived from you just one day after I ordered it! It was my first microwave repair ever, and it couldn't have been easier.

Wow! It really was as easy as everyone says. I ordered the part. It came overnight. I took out the 6 screws on the bottom of the microwave (AFTER unplugging the microwave of course), unscrewed the part and unplugged it, put in the new motor, plugged it in and screwed it in, and replaced the bottom screws. The only trouble I had, which really has nothing to do with this part or the repair, was that some of the screws on the bottom of the microwave were very difficult to replace as they didn't seem to line up with the holes beneath. I had a handyman coming to do some deck repairs and had him put those in. Ah well. I did MOST of it myself.

Stephanie, age 52

I lined up the new grille's tabs on the microwave's
holes, carefully pushed it into place, secured it with the two small screws I had saved and badda bing, badda boom, done and done. Perfect fit, looks great. Couldn't have been easier. Thanks.
GE wanted over a hundred dollars for the same part.

I followed the directions on your web site. I removed the screws adn dropped the bottom tray, unplugged the drive motor, removed two screw, and replaced with the new motor. It only took about 15 minutes.

I went to a U-tube video and secured the installation instructions. Video said it would take 15 minutes to do repair. Took me longer to get the door apart but finally got it installed. Had to disassemble a couple of times before getting it right but it worked out. Took a little over an hour.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

Very easy repair to replace filters. Step 1: Note position of filter and which end is towards you and position of latch handle. Slide old grease filter away from you and forward until it drops out, Set it aside. Step 2: Take new filter and put in slot away (as you noted) from you then slide towards you until seated properly underneath microwave. Repeat steps for the second filter. It takes about 2 minutes.

I ordered and replaced the coupler. Once installed, all was well!

Took out the door to be able to replace the door latch. After removing the plastic cover it was challenging to remove the broken latch (unlike other models this has two separate latches individually controlled by spring. The pin holding the latch was impossible to take out and I figured I need to take out inner layer of the door frame (metal part) to remove it. But the frame was stuck and did not come out. I found no reference how to do it on internet and then with another pair of hand pulled outwards while simultaneously pulling upward. Was finally about to pull just enough and replace the latch and push the metal frame to fit back.

Unscrewed bottom panel, then unscrewed light socket, then replaced with new socket and bulb. Reattached socket and panel.

You'll need to use the knife to remove the plastic frame backing from the the microwave door. Be careful when disengaging the tabs so as not to break them.Then you'll need to use a phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws from the door. Remove the damaged handle. Installation is the reverse of the removal process.

Have a microwave that the light and sockets just broke in pieces so I ordered two sockets from this site . The fit perfectly and it was a breeze to install. Took out 7 screws and the plate dropped down, hooked up the little wire which was so simple and bingo I had lite again. I just wished the hold plate came down but it didn't but it was still very easy to install. Will continue to get my appliance parts from this company.