RTW4100WQ1 Roper Washer - Instructions

I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place and the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story

Ordered drain hose extender. It uses a rubber flange with hose clip to attach to washer's plastic hose. When tightened, the hose clip crushes the plastic hose and crimps it, causing a leak. My solution was to find a copper pipe flange that was the same diameter as the interior of the plastic hose to act as a bushing for the plastic hose. The hose clip could then be tightened without deforming the hose. Worked great with no leaks.

1. Removed back panel.
2. Removed Entire control paned, control and switch units disconnecting wiring assembly from motor.
3 Tilted front and side panel assembly away from frame, tub assembly and motor transmission assembly.
4.Removed cap from top of agitator, removed bolt holding agitator. Removed agitator, this part was tricky since some corrosion on shaft made agitator very difficult to pull off.
4. From bottom of unit disconnected motor/transmission unit from wash tub.
5. Located clutch assembly and removed lock washers. Removed clutch and replaced with new one.
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Steps 1 thru 3 were unnecessary.
All that needed to be done was to removed the agitator assembly. then turn unit on it's side or back and removed motor and transmission from the bottom.

I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

Watched the video on this site on removal and installment Done in less than 5 minutes including cleaning where the dispenser is located

I removed four srews holding the control panel and laid it to the side, then removed a screw holding the ground on and disconnected the electrical connection. The lid needs to be open to remove the switch. Just remove the switch and reverse sequence. To replace the coupling , I laid over the washer and removed two screws holding the straps connecting the motor to the transmission. After seperating, I pulled off old couplings and reinstalled the new ones on both the motor and transmission. I had to tap couplings on. Then reversed the installation and set backup and tried it out. It worked great.

i had to strip the outer housing of the wahing machine apart the remove the motoe from the transmission to get to the coupling. once i recived the coupling( which was very quickly) i just reversed those steps.

After flipping the washer on it's side snap off the clips that hold the motor in place and discard the old coupling. The new coupling fits in very snug some may need a little persuation to attach but once attached the motor lines up nicely and just snap back the clips, turn the washer over and test with a fresh load.

Unpluged washer. Turned washer on its side, unpluged wire harness to motor. Removed hoses to pump on motor, removed screws and nuts holding motor, then pulled out motor. Popped off old couplings,intalled new, reassembled. Piece of cake!

I went to Youtube, looked up motor coupling repair for a Kenmore/Whirlpool washer. Chris Fix had an easy to follow video. I tilted the machine back, propped it up. Removed four clips holding two parts in place. Replaced the faulty coupler, Set the engine back in place replaced the clips, and was finished for a total price of $18.

I read the experiences of others on this site and determined that the problem was probably the lid switch. Used others experience in taking the panel off and removed the old switch and inserted the new one. The post to be sure to have the lid open was good and probably saved me some time. Overall, the fix was simple and the problem appears to have been solved. The lid switch got here the day after I ordered it and that was great service. Better than paying for a service call or new washer.

Hello the installation was real simple I first uplug machine from wall I turn off all water leading to in to the machine I then tip machine on it side I then took loose all wiring leading to the motor then motor is held up with 3 screws and 2 bands that hold it in place I reinstall the new motor coupling insert the wires and turn back on the water leading to machine then plug machine back in, every thing was good to go. . . . Save a lot of money doing it my self so simple to do. . . .

Unplug washer. Place large old towel in floor at rear of washer. Turn off and disconnect water supply lines and allow to drip dry. Place towel in floor in front of washer. Tip washer forward onto face of washer. Unplug wiring clip connector from drive motor. Remove 2 1/4 inch head screws from spring clips on bottom of motor housing. Slowly rotate clips out of the was to drop motor. Knoch top coupling piece off agitator shaft with screwdriver and light hammer. replace coupling with 5/8 deep well socket as a driver which will fit the metal insert in the coupling and not interfere with the shaft. then drive the other coupling onto the motor shaft using light hammer and drive socket(5/8) deep well. place the rubber shock connector onto the agitator drive piece then slide the motor back into the mount position. rotate the clips vback into place. tighten 1/4 head screws in clips re-attach the wiring harness tip the washer back up onto "feet" re-attach water supply lines tighten appropriately. Plug unit into receptacle and enjoy....

Turn off the power,remove the washer cabinet top and side panels. unsnap the water pump clips, unscrew and unclip the motor mounting clips.Remove the old drive coupling and triangular drive shaft adaptors.Clean area and install the three new parts, reattach the motor and pump, close the cabinet,turn the power back on and test.Done! The only hard part is working down on the floor and you need a good flashlight.

Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.