RT18BKXSQ00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

Our refrigerator was no longer emitting cold air and clicking every 5 minutes in what sounded like a "starter" click and then a few minutes later an ending/"shutoff" click. Nothing else would happen between the clicks and we could still hear the freezer fan running in the freezer.

Frequent clicks meant that the starter relay was broken and that the condenser was not failing to start thus failing to cool.

I found very useful videos showing this process on Youtube but here are instructions:

Unplug the refrigerator and open up the back panel on the bottom. The condenser is a black round metal sphere in the center. To the right is the condenser coil which is a flat coil. Attached on the left side of the condenser is a plastic casing with wires coming out from the bottom, that is the relay housing.

Pull the plastic casing off, it is held by a metal clamp. Underneath the plastic casing is the relay. it is attached to the condenser with a straight long pin.

Pull the relay straight out, away from the condenser. You may use a flathead for leverage but I used some elbow grease and slowly wiggled it out.

Look at the relay. For my Admiral, the relay has a little headpiece that sits on the relay and connects to the pin. Otherwise you will have pulled out the relay piece and there will be wires connecting to terminals on the relay.

Remove the wires connecting to the terminals, noting which wires connect to which terminals. Take a picture on your phone if you need to. You may want to use pliers to maintain the terminal connectors on the wires and it may take some elbow grease.

Once all the wires are disconnected from the old relay, discard the old relay. You will know if it's faulty if you shake it and it sounds like it's full of broken glass. A new relay will not make that sound.

Connect the wire connectors to the new relay in the correct terminals.

Reconnect the new relay to the condenser by pushing it back onto the pin all the way.

Replace the plastic cover with the metal clamp.

Clean the dust off the condenser coils while you have the chance.

Replace the back panel and plug in the refrigerator. You should not hear any more clicking and you should feel the air from the freezer become cooler pretty quickly.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

When you plug in the fridge it will begin to make noise, but never get cool. When you open the door it will stop and will not turn back on.

This part is listed as one that can fix the problem, but the installation video does not match my fridge.

I've replaced the capacitor (PS11757023), the compressor start relay (PS11740412), and condenser fan (PS1957416) and none of them have fixed the problem.

I really don't want to throw this fridge out. Please help! [email protected]

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

I unscrewed the fill tube screws from the back of the fridge, and pulled the tube out.

Then I put the new tube in, screwed the screws back in and reconnected the waterline.

Removed the two screws holding the funnel in place...removed the old one and replaced it witht he new tubing...screwed screws back in and the jov was complete. It actually took longer to get it out of the sack than it did to put it together

Simply removed the old and replaced with the new part.

I followed the simple steps outlines in the great video! Thanks

Unscrew broken piece, pull it out and then insert new one, security it in place and connect water line again, make sure It's thight check for leaks and done

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

Part was easy to order, delivered quickly, installation very easy. Just unplug the unit, pop out the old swich using a screwdriver, disconnect and reconnect leads and pop switch back in. Definitely recommend that you can do it too.