RBS305PDB16 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

First thing you must do is remove door from oven, to do this there are locks on the hinges, lift them up. Next put door into an upright position with door opened about two inches, lift up and pull away from oven. Lay door on flat surface with inside of door facing up. there are two screws at to of door and two screws at bottom of door remove them place to side. next there are four more screws on each corner of the inside of door, they also need to be removed. this will cause the inside and outside of door to come apart. Hold door together and flip over, be careful. remove outside of door put to side. there is a bracket at the bottom with two screws remove, and remove bracket. There is a bracket at top with one screw remove. there are two pieces of glass be careful remove the two pieces of glass to get to the broken piece. Clean broken glass be careful not to cut yourself. Remember how you removed everything to put back together, do everything in reverse. Good luck, it's not that bad.

INNER GLASS - A YouTube video on removing Whirlpool Oven Doors was very helpful. Cleaning the other two panels of glass with a Baking Soda paste worked like a dream. Re-assembly was fairly easy. The hardest part was re-aligning the outer glass cover's top holes so I could drive the screws in. LIGHT BULBS - To easy to describe.

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

I used the manufacturers' manual as a guide and removed the door. This was not straightforward because the diagram was overly simplified. Once I figured it out, door removal was quite easy. I then took the door apart layer by layer (there are several), cleaning each part with oven cleaner, or detergent as I went. If not for cleaning, the repair would have taken half the amount of time. I then put the door together again and re-attached it. This was a little bit tricky but I got it to snap into place on the second attempt. Overall, this is a fairly easy repair and I do not have too much to add to existing comments. I would add the following: (1) Use work gloves to remove the broken glass. In fact, use gloves to handle all glass. (2) Take your time when re-assembling the door because the layers have to be lined up accurately for the screws to take and hold all of the layers together. In summary, I am very pleased with how this repair went. For 90 minutes of my time and $45, I was able to get the oven looking like new again.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

I took the door off the hinge, laid it on the kitchen island and began to unscrew the outside screws. Be sure to have a bowl to place all the screws so none fall to the floor. I would recommend taking pictures with a camera phone as you dismantle each piece. The extra time was spent trying to remember how to put the 4 panes of glass back together....and if I had pictures to refer to it would have been easier. SECOND TIP- DO NOT have your husband help with any of this. I probably could have finished in less than 30 minutes if I was doing it by myself. Once he went to bed, the reassembly was much easier.

I did not remove the door. After removing as much broken glass as possible, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the door, pushing a bit against the plastic oven vents so the screwdriver could fit into the screw heads. I then removed the two screws on top of the oven door. This releases the outside of the door. I then removed the two bottom screws holding the bracket that holds the piece of glass fitting into the slot at the top. I bent back the tabs with pliers, cleaned the last bit of glass out of the slots, and then put the new glass in and bent the tabs back as much as possible. It actually was pretty tight. The rest is just cleaning and putting the pieces back together. Just be careful as the four screws that go into the top and bottom of the door are actually different from the other screws. Just make sure you keep all screws separated and use them as removed. Not too bad, just time consuming.

Hardest part was getting the oven door off. Since I bought this house with oven already in place, I had no owner's manual. Tried to get it off with tips found on this site, no go. Went online and found the manual which said to insert allen wrench in holes in hinge, then lift up FROM THE BOTTOM. That is the key. Got door off, then found that replacing the inner glass is a multi step process that starts with the outside door, then multiple brackets to the next inside glass, then more braces to next glass, then finally you are at the broken (inside) glass.My advice would be to take pictures on cell phone or whatever of each level, so you know what goes where when you put it all back. I figured it out but would be faster with a picture. Anyway, got all together and the oven works fine, door looks great!.

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

replace thermal safety switch on back of oven

Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.