PVM1870SM3SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

every thing is working, but no hot

Threw the old filter away and slide the new one in without any tools ! Filter should be cleaned every month - who knew ?

1. Unplug the microwave or switch off the breaker to the microwave. 2. Unscrew 5 screws on the bottom plate of the microwave. The plate swings down by the hinges on the back. 3. Unplug the wires leading to the turntable motor and make note of which color wire goes on which side of the motor plug. 4. The initial instructions said unscrew the screw holding the motor but my model has two screws. Remove the screws and lower the motor. 5. Insert the plastic coupler from inside the microwave through the hole in the center of the base. The coupler has a half moon shaped female shaft that connects to the male shaft that extends up from the motor. Slide the motor shaft into the plastic coupler. 6. Replace the screws that hold the motor onto the base of the microwave. 7. Plug the power wires back into the motor with the wires in the correct position as noted above. 8. Plug in the microwave and turn it on to check if the turntable now turns. Mine did not at first so I unplugged the microwave and the motor wires. It turns out you can plug the motor wires in and they don't connect correctly. I reconnected the motor plug and plugged the microwave back in and turned it on. This time the turntable was working. 8. Replace the five screws on the bottom plate of the microwave. Done.

Just like the directions said. Very simple.

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

removed housing. saw t-stat was burnt. replaced t-stat by removing mounting screw and installing new t-stat. reinstalled mounting screw. reinstalled oven housing. 15 minute job.

Installation of the damper was effortless but removing the microwave, cutting holes vertically through an overhead cabinet then installing ducting with a ninety degree bend, through another cabinet, and then through outside wall consumed most of the time and effort.Your service, packaging, and timely (next day!) were extremely helpful.

There are five Philips screws on the bottom outside cover .one at each corner and one at the front center. Remove all four at the corners .leaving the front center for last. When the last screw is removed ,the cover will hinge down, it is attached to clips at the back that allow it fold down. The wire attached to the light socket is connected by a pull apart plug. Grasp at each end of the hard plastic connector and pull outward ,DO NOT PULL ON THE Wires ! Lift the cover from the back of the microwave place it on a flat surface on a towel keep it from sliding around. Remove the screws holding the porcelain sockets. Reverse procedure to reinstall .Installing new Halogen lamps is suggested. Use a clean tissue or cloth to handle the lamps, finger prints on the lamp will shorten the life .

This is the second time this happened for me. The shaft for the Coupler breaks and will no longer let the plate turn. I looked at the instructions of letting the bottom of the microwave down, etc. and all I could think of is I don't think so. I used the tweezers to try to get the broken piece of the coupler but neither time was it intact. Could not locate the broken part so took the liberty of just putting the new part on the shaft, pushed down and viola I now have a turning table again. I am an 83 age female who likes to try being a do-it-your selfer. Of course there are times I am not successful but. . .By thinking back of why this part keeps breaking I think it may be my fault. I always turn the glass plate around manually when the handle of the cup or mug is out of reach. May be my fault and maybe not. Anyway this time I ordered 2 of the same parts just for future repair hopefully not needed. V.J.

Once we noticed the turntable not working I removed the piece and noticed it was broken at the base of the coupler, took a vacuum and removed the broken piece and installed the new part. Thanks for the help!

I laid the new tray in the microwave. There was nothing to really install....but, the woman I spoke to in order to order the tray was terrific and I had the part in two days!! I would recommend this company every time!!!!!!

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

simply remove broken coupler and install new coupler. no tools required.

damper plate was a snap-in part. rotated fan discharge to top of microwave. installed ducting to discharge food odors outside.