PSC23PSTS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

Disconnect main water line from behind refrigerator
Remove bottom panel from refrigerator
Disconnect hose from water valve
Remove metal hose guard from top left of refrigerator Carefully remove plumbers putty from around filter hose (you will be reinstalling this putty around new hose assembly)
Inside refrigerator remove MWF water filter and guard, and then remove two screws holding filter assembly in place (this requires socket set with 4” extension bar)
Carefully pull filter hose assembly towards you from front of refrigerator. Once assembly is out remove Styrofoam cover from old assembly and install on new assembly
To reassemble, simply follow this process in reverse. Good luck

I removed the screws out of the hinge while my wife put pressure on the door to hold it in place. I removed the hinge, replaced it with a new one, and screwed it back in place. Took just a couple of minutes. Easy and fast. The refrigerator was not leveled properly and that was why the door had swung back so fast, with enough force to eventually bend the hinge. I contacted geappliances.custhelp.com and used the chat option to speak to someone about how to lower the back wheels. They were extremely helpful in walking me through it. Now the refrigerator is leveled, and the door, when opened, will not swing back and contact the hinge. My overall experience in fixing this problem, from locating and ordering the correct part, to installing it, and then fixing the problem that led to the hinge being damaged in the first place, was outstanding.

First, I turned off the water supply line to the refrigerator from the house at the wall and unplugged the power cord. Secondly, I removed the small screws that hold the piece of cardboard over the opening in the lower left corner (rear of the refrigerator) by the compressor. Thirdlyl, I removed the other end of the water line where it attaches to the water valve with an adjustable end wrench. Then I removed the small screw that holds the double water outlet valves to the refrigerator frame. I then removed the water valve by pulling it out of the rear of the refrigerator, unplugged the electrical connections, and cut the water lines where they enter the valves. I then plugged the electrical connectors into the new valves and pushed the hoses into their respective openings. These are one-way connectors - once you push them in (firmly) they will not leak or come back out. All I did then was replace the valve and secure it with the one little screw and then replace the cardboard piece onto the rear of the refrigerator. Don't forget to turn the water supply back on. That's it!!

This is the second or third time this cup has broken. Maybe we use more crushed ice than the average family, but you would think this part could be more durable. Anyway, I digress. This is about the repair. Four screws removed around bottom of tray, one screw removed for some bar that mechanically opens a door to allow ice to fall out of the tray, and two butter knives used to release tabs around the screw components... and we were done.

pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.

Removed tray, threw out ice , removed 3 screws used 2 screw drivers to seperate part & re installed

Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Unscrewed the outer cover/base of the ice maker. Unscrewed the long lever that opens the ice chute. This freed up the feeder coil enough to pull it out enough to replace the cup drive. Once I replaced the cup drive, I laid it back down into the ice maker bin, reattached all the screws and it worked! The old cup drive had a tine broken off which would not allow the feeder coil to turn. It seems like a weak part and I anticipate I may have to replace it again in a few years.

Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

Before replacing the top filter housing, ensure the inlet water valve is operational. Replacing is a straight forward process. Unhook the houses from the inlet water valve in the back of the refrigerator. Remove and replace the top filter housing and ensure you replace the sealant using plumbers putty or sealant dicor butyl putty.

Removed ice bucket and observed the plastic drive bushing for the auger had the drive dog broken off. I removed the four screws on outer shell for the ice bucket, removed it and found the auger had key stoned a hole in the ice tray housing. At that point I decided to replace the ice bucket and auger assy. The new one works fine.

I removed the ice from the tray, took out the four screws from the tray, pulled up the metal spiral took out the old drive cup, replaced with the new one, replaced the screws and put the tray back in the freezer. A piece of cake. Thanks for your prompt service and the reviews on how to replace.

After lots of research online, i narrowed my problem down to be the double outlet water valve, behind the fridge. My biggest problem was getting the refridgerator out of its spot, but after that it was pretty simple to change. I took the cover off the bottom, in the back of the fridge, then i removed the inlet waterline (after i turned off the water supply to the fridge). After that i removed the screw that holds the valve to the framework. Now i pulled off the two other waterlines from the old valve and moved them, one at a time, over to the new valve, along with the wire harness. The rest of the instalation was reverse order. Simple fix that im glad i didn't pay an expert to do!