PDW9800LW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Exactly as described by a previous reviewer. I pulled out the old rack, put in the new rack and just moved over the cutlery rack.

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.

Once we ordered both the "Stud Roller" and "Roller Lower Rack" the repair was simple.

The previous studs mostly disitegrated, so their removal was not an issue. The wheels pulled off easily.

I recomend getting new studs and rollers for all of the wheels on your rack. For me, that was 8 wheels and 8 studs.

First, take the rack out and flp it upside down in a convenient working space. Next, remove all of the old wheels and studs from the rack and discard. Then, snap the new wheels on to the new studs. Next, atached the stud (with the wheel) to each of the 8 spots on the rack. Put the rack back in the dishwasher and walla!

I can't beive that I waited almost two years to make this simple repair.

I pulled out the racks and decided to take off the upper (mid) arm. It came off with an adjustable wrench. When I looked at the arm I could tell that some of the holes were blocked. Some debris had gotten lodged in the holes and were blocking the water flow. I used tweezers to remove the debris and it solved the problem. I then pulled out the lower arm and cleaned it with warm water. There were soap deposits and I wondered if other debris could be blocking this as well. Finally I went onto the web site and saw that for $40 including shipping I could replace these parts with brand new parts. I did and the machine washes like new again.

1. Removed the cap ends from the inner rails - easy

2. Removed the old rusted rack from the inner rails- easy

3. Removed the spray arm and conduit - a bit difficult: there's a hard-to-reach nut that you need to remove at the hub of the spray arm - A pain in the neck because it cannot be reached vertically.

4. Installed the spray arm and conduit onto new rack. Make sure the conduit aligns with the pipe at the rear inner wall! - easy

5. Installed the rack onto the rails - easy

6. inserted the cap ends - done!

No tools required. The seal just pushes into a channel around the tub. The lower ends are held by a wire that spans the lower edge of the door. I started with the lower end since I didn't know just how the seal was installed and found the wire that sticks into the hollow center of the end of the seal. The seal just pulls out so removed it and the wire. Cleaned the seal channel and wire and installed the new seal starting at the bottom and working upwards. after the lower ends are anchored,I found the center of the seal and upper channel and pushed it in place and worked around the corners and down. I did that because I have seen seals stretch as you push them in place and end up in the middle with excess material you have to work back into the seal channel.

Took out old basket, took off the sprayer arm and put it on the new basket.. pulled out the old wheels on the side tracks and slid the new basket in...pretty simple...

Detached the dishwasher from the cabinet. Slid it out. Removed small guide wheel that the cable went through. Removed the old broken cable. Replaced with new cable. Replaced the guide wheel. Hooked the cable to the door. Hooked the other end to the spring and hooked the spring to the body of the dishwasher. Put some WD40 on the the cable guide. Slide the dishwasher back under the counter and attached it to the cabinets. All done.

Lower assembly only require removal and replacement without tools. Upper assembly required screw driver and pliers to install water wand from old rack to new rack.

The most surprising aspect of this repair was the short 36 hours that it took from order placement to product receipt.

Removed original silverware basket from dishwasher rack. Replaced it with new silverware basket. Placed original silverware basket in recycle bin (plastic content). So easy, even my 24 year old son could do it!

Remove screws holding old hose. Attach clamp to new hose with nut driver. Tighten hose and clamp around attachment.

Easy as cake. Perfect part!

Removed the wire clip, then removed two screws on mounting bracket. Then disconected the hose. Removed the brass elbow.

Then reversed these steps and I was done.

We removed the remaining rollers, inserted the studs into the rollers and attached to the lower rack. Easy. I can't believe we put up with this for so long. We appreciate your quick service. So much easier than going shopping and waiting for the parts to come in and then having to go pick them up. Thanks for being there.

The repair itself was simple. I replaced the broken plastic pulley and the cable attached to the door and spring because one end was bent. I also had to remove the fitting that held the pulley in place. In order to access the spring, I had to pull the dishwasher way out and that required disconnecting the water supply, the drain tube, and the electrical wiring! Then I had to reconnect everything. So although the repair took less than 30 minutes, the rest of the work took a couple hours.

No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10