PDW8700J00CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Repaired the soap dispenser.

Replaced interlock assembly as one of the possible causes. The replacement was easy, but this was not the final fix. I also replaced the water inlet valve, flood switch and finally found that there was large calcification within the drain tube assembly (not visible, but was blocking water). Got a new flexible tubing and new drain hose, plugged everything together and the dishwasher runs like new now. Watching for a potential leak from the drain tube to drain hose connection and mya need to tape it up, but so far so good...

The entire flat side of the end cap, (with the cutout latch), goes on the outside of the guide bar. It took less than 15 seconds to insert. It took about 30 minutes of searching for videos and playing around with the part to figure this out. A simple diagram would have been helpful.

Thought it might be check flapper valve on drain pump, so I replaced fairly easily, per instructions. When doing, I noticed the attached relay wires were not secure. When it was on the drain cycle one of the relay wires vibrated badly and loosened the connection enough to only work occasionaly. Would like to put new relay on the pump but they do not sell separately from the pump. (one assembly). I resecured connection and will wait till relay gives out and buy new assembly, but for now it's working perfectly!

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-k0iZGwMOGc
And then I did exactly what it said! It was easy. Plus, when I opened the panel I could see the old switch interlock assembly was melted on one side, so I knew I had gotten the right part!

Followed the instruction video on your website. It was accurate and valid. The repair should have taken 15 mins., instead one of the screws holding the dispenser was frozen. Tried DW-40, and liquid wrench. Neither worked because the screw was in plastic.Finally got out the Dremel and cutting wheels. Had to cut away enough of the unit until I could get at the screw (it was the center bottom one). Sliced through some more of the housing, then cut a notch in the screw head deep enough so I could apply enough pressure with a flat blade screwdriver to open it. After that things went as smoothly as could be expected.A bad design and cheap materials.

Removed the dishwasher to get at the defective parts and removed,than replaced the two check valves and reassemble.

I simply removed the bad part and reversed the process. It was very easy and a 12 year old could do it. Thanks for the online tips and recommendations. You saved me over 400.00 which is what a new unit would run. Plus installation. Many Thanks.

Reference diagram of upper rack assembly. Remove the top rack (615) from the upper rack rails of dishwasher by unlatching cap ends (652) of rails. Then unlatch and unscrew middle spray arm bracket (620) on old arm spray hub (610) from conduit mid spray (617). Replace old arm spray hub with new one from kit. Next, attach new arm spray mid asm (618) with new bearing spray arm screw (611). Finally reinstall top rack onto upper rack rails and closed latches of cap ends.

Took screws out that hold front panel on, unplugged wiring, changed soap dispenser, and put everything back together. Not a bad repair at all.