PDW8500J10BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Pull out the old, died gasket. Clean out track that holds gasket. insert new gasket.

No instructions. At first thought I needed instructions. A minute later I was attaching the new rollers. Simple and easy. Took less than 15 minutes. Would recommend these rollers.

This lower rack (GE part #WD28X25960) was ready to roll right into the dishwasher straight out of the box, no tools needed.

Repaired the soap dispenser.

The replacement dishwasher basket easily fit in my dishwasher. Easy to order. Quick delivery. Highly recommended.

Replaced interlock assembly as one of the possible causes. The replacement was easy, but this was not the final fix. I also replaced the water inlet valve, flood switch and finally found that there was large calcification within the drain tube assembly (not visible, but was blocking water). Got a new flexible tubing and new drain hose, plugged everything together and the dishwasher runs like new now. Watching for a potential leak from the drain tube to drain hose connection and mya need to tape it up, but so far so good...

HAHA! The easiest repair we have ever done! Took it out of the box, snapped the old arm loose, put the new arm in and -- the dishwasher works like new! Thank you!

Followed instructions on how-to video on website on how to remove and replace lower spray arm.

Pulled old spray arm off and snapped new one on. Less than 3 minutes and works great. Dishes are cleaner now.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

Purchased new $1400 dishwasher from sales floor for $699. Cosmetically perfect, but missing drain tube and clamp. Seemed like a good deal... and it was. Needed parts were $34. Install of this machine was a breeze, and it is suoer quiet...I need to get down on the floor and listen for water flow to know that it's working. Really.

The entire flat side of the end cap, (with the cutout latch), goes on the outside of the guide bar. It took less than 15 seconds to insert. It took about 30 minutes of searching for videos and playing around with the part to figure this out. A simple diagram would have been helpful.

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

This was a simple part swap. The stud rollers are the small peg-clips that hold the wheel on the lower dish rack. Removing the old stud rollers from the wheels required a pair of pliers. I then popped the new stud rollers into the old wheels and snapped them back onto the lower dish rack. I scored some major points from my frustrated wife -- easy, fast fix!

Removed the existing stud rollers with the wheels attached. Then removed the wheels from the stud roller. Then snapped the wheels on the new "Better Designed" stud rollers. Then easily snapped the new stud roller assembly in place. Piece of cake...works like a charm.

Thanks,

Randy