PDW7880G00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Put new basket in, threw old one away

Called repairman: announced that the drain pump was gone. Did not seem right. Went to the website. Found what I was looking for. 49% of the time it was a check-valve issue; only 26% of the time was the pump the problem. Took the unit from under the counter; got it on its side; removed the drain pump. Found my first check-valve, but thediagram showed a second lower one toward the sump. Having located both and purchased two valves and and the lower holder piece, I was ready to finish the job. Quarter-inch nut driver and a screw driver and the valves were in and the drain pump re-installed. Most difficult in my case was getting the dw back into its spot and lashed down! Thanks for the good guidance!

remove water connection; shut off circuit breaker ; follow the suplied directions; reassemble washer . job done - leak gone. Wife happy.

Watched a YouTube video on disassembly, parts replacement, and reassembly.

Slid it in. Very easy and the replacement part is built better than the original part.

Removed all 8 wheels and inserted the new one after inserting the axles into each wheel. Replacement wheels had a much better connection to the bottom rack and do not anticipate any problems in the future.

Great

I replaced the keypad very easily. I diagnosed the keypad because the "normal wash" button and "start button" were nonresponsive. These are the keys most often used, so I took the gamble that it was the keypad and not the control module. It was a good gamble. I removed the rear panel to get to the keypad and discovered that I had a problem with mice infiltrating my noise insulation, so I decided to replace that as well. The keypad was just a matter of unplugging the keypad from the control module and the digital display. I did end up using the old digital display because it had a similar plug configuration. I replaced the old contaminated insulation and replaced it with the new by simply pulling out the old insulation, scraping away most of the old adhesive and using a hot glue gun to glue the new insulation in place. When that was complete I made certain that the control panel was properly seated and I re-attached the rear panel.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

The installation video that is on the website with the part is very helpful & easy to follow. The wires that attach to the heating element & the nuts that hold it in place are actually located a few inches off the ground so I didn't need to tip the machine over to pull them out & unscrew the nuts. All I had to do was unscrew the screws that hold the dishwasher in place under the counter next to the sink, pull it out & was able to reach the wires underneath it.
The actual repair took me less than 30 minutes, I marked it as 30-60 because during the somehow the water line going to the dishwasher had come loose from under the sink (not at the dishwasher) & because of this I had to stop midway to deal with some loose water & tighten things back up. I would recommend following the video, there really isn't much more to add that would be helpful.

After I unscrewed it from the counter and took off the front panel I first went to the garage to turn off the power to the dishwasher. I then pulled it out a little bit at a time. I didn't want to take apart any hoses or unplug electrical wires from connectors if I didn't have to. I then looked underneath and noticed that only one pulley spring was off and the plastic piece was broken. So when I received it in the part in the mail I took of the plastic part from the pulley. I just reused the original wire pully. I reached back with the spring to hook it back on with some difficulty and then hooked the piece back on and it was done. I placed everything back and switched the power on and its good to go. Nice job to do myself and watch a Youtube video on how to do it.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

Squeeze the new link to the cable hook with pliers while locking the vise grip to the cable for easier handling. Then, using the vise grip on the cable, hook the other end of the link to the dishwasher door hook

Followed the instructions that came with the my order