PDT720SSH6SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Simply removed old gasket by hand, lined up center of new gasket (white dot was printed on the center of new gasket) with the tub latch and pressed new gasket into place. We have used the dishwasher about a dozen times since and hasn't leaked a drop.

Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good
Researched symptoms on YouTube
Removed and inspected float switch part
Ordered and replaced part.

Bottom rack came complete with all racks. Only had to transfer the (2) side bumper guards,

2 hose clamps, connect the wire with the wire adaptor suppled

The only directions that came with the new pump and filter, was how to replace the filter. I had to find a You Tube video to show me where the drain pump was located., and the way to get to it. I also had to figure out how the new pump was hooked up electrically, since the new pump did not work with the plug in on the machine.

Followed directions on YouTube

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...

Just snapped it in place and that’s it!

The part is held in with two plastic clips, which are easy to unclip. The part needed to be slightly flexed to release it and the new part went in the same way the old one came off. One issue: The replacement part had one extra row of tines that encroached on the silverware basket. As it turned out, one tine fit between basket sections and the other fit through the hole in the bottom of the basket and it doesn't interfere with utensils so it turned out not to be a problem.

Parts diagram shows Striker can be popped out with screwdriver. Not true. It has a screw bolting it internally. Impossible to get to unless you disassemble the entire door. We took a power drill and small drill bit and bore it out like a cavity in a tooth. Needle nose pliers to extract the screw. Pretend your a dentist. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Replacement fit tight. A+

Took out 2 screws that held machine in cabinet. Pulled out dishwasher about 4 inches. removed old latch and disconnected electric connection. Put in new latch, reconnected electric connection, replaced screws, pushed machine back in cabinet, replaced 2 screws that hold machine in place. Works like new!

I had to replace a docking port. Parts Select had the part, labeled as stainless, just as this survey indicates. Well folks, the part I received is 100% plastic. It it the correct part, just not stainless. Should it have been stainless due to a faulty plastic design? I don’t know.

I used Parts Select for the simple directions for installation. I was eventually linked to a YouTube video for a completely different docking port. Does my part slip on? Does it press in? I don’t know.

Needless to say, this has been a cheap but frustrating ordeal that is not yet over. Thanks for having the stainless, but really plastic, part and for having directions for some other part available.

After replacing UI board, I replaced the mainboard. still did not solve the problem. The element tested good and I had removed the flood switch, rinsed and blew it out so it rattled but the damage was done. Replacing it made the dishwasher heat water and heated during dry cycle. Removed fine filter, removed course filter, removed two screws with nut driver, removed flood sensor and then reversed. A year or so ago, the dishwasher flooded for no apparent reason, wondering if that was the beginning end of the switch!

First, drain as much water as possible using a shop vac or siphon. Unscrew two plastic lugs and food screen to release the metal *disk* found inside the dishwasher at the bottom. Then, remove the grey retainer ring found under the food screen.
Using the nut driver, remove two screws from the white plastic retainer ring at bottom the flood switch.
I used pliers to grip the ring to take it out.
**Dry everything in the "well" where the flood switch sits.**
Now, remove the bottom front cosmetic panel. This exposes the underside of the appliance. Locate the flood switch wire underneath and gently pull down the small black plastic tab which holds the wires in place. This allows more movement to make your job a little easier!
Pull up on the flood switch and simply unplug it and swap in your new switch! Replace everything as you found it, don't over-tighten your screws, and make your kids load that sucker! Hope this helps, and have a beautiful day!

Installed new heater by pulling unit out of it’s cubby hole. Was able to gain access to the nuts that hold it down and make the seal, as well as the electrical connections. Re-installed. Helpful if you remove both dish baskets and utencil basket for access when installing heater.