PCF25PGWB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Ordered ice crusher dispenser cover removed 3 screws and face plate of ice crusher was easily replaced and again working like new

Replaced crusher disp, but had to order the back plate(didn't realize it was two piece) waiting for that part. It was very easy to do. Had to use two drivers to pop out of ice bucket.

Went on this site, found out many others like me had the flap door stuck open problem, it would not shut after you went for ice. I needed a new solenoid that opens when the ice is dispenced and closes afterwards not allowing the warm ambient air to come up the shoot which frosts the ice and melts it. It shipped QUICK and now I have a working ice maker dispenser from the outside. Its been 2 YEARS of opening the door and reaching into the ice maker bin for ice! Thanks PartSelect

with a small screwdriver push in tabs in upword movement to remove the face cover for the three botons of ice crushed ice and water .
once removed remove four screw to take out the circular door .
solinoid plunger will be atached to the door and it has to screws holding the solinoid .
instolation is the oposit steps of removing the part

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

The allan wrench pushes into the holes nder the front control plate and it pops off. Unplug the wires and set aside. Four screws removes the next piece and the "flaper" door is visable.

Replacing was easy. Cleaning took the longest. Order screws with parts, I could not find them at the hardware store. I suggest a coat of oil (3 in one) on the solenoid/piston surfaces. I probably did not have to replace them. The rust was inhibiting the piston movement. Some steel wool and oil would have probably fixed it. If the flap closing starts sounding softer, I'm going to take it apart and clean it first.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

I had to replace the whole tray. Required complete disassembly and reassembly. Simple to do. No problems whatsoever!!

Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.

It was so darn easy! Took less then 10 minutes to fix. Self explanatory no instructions needed! Very cool!

Knew the switch was bad. Researched on the internet how to fix. Used a steak knife to pop the old one out, changed the contacts to the new switch and popped it back in. It took longer to open the box than it did to replace the switch. And the part arrived 2 days after I ordered it.

Take the face (the part with the buttons on the outside) off, disconnect wired connectors (three), take the screws out of the part behind that (4), and then find the solenoid value (on the right). It's attached with three screws. Mine was rusted beyond belief. I knew this was the problem, ordered a new solenoid valve, put it back in place with three screws (use new screws that fit, not the old rusty ones if possible). When testing, make sure you give the flap a couple of seconds to close. There is a delay, and I initially wasn't patient enough so I had to disassemble and assemble an extra time because of this.

Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.

remove the front of were the ice and water comes out
then un scerw 4 scerw and the solenoid slides out unhook the wires and put the new one in