PCF25PGWB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

New parts just snapped in place. Perfect fit.

Took the tray out, removed three screws, popped the front tray out, installed the deflector, and put it back together. Done in less than 15 minutes and my wife is ecstatic that our dispenser works again.

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS OF YOUR VIDEO

removed ice bucket from frig. removed screws to dis assemble the box to get to the auger assembly,removed stripped nut replaced reassembled be care not to let the rest of the assembly fall from auger there are a lot of blades and spacers to try to get back to proper position.

took off the front panel, removed the auger and front piece, removed the pin and spring and installed them on to the new piece and then put everything back together

I am going to start by talking about the problems. I woke up one beautiful morning around 4 am and grabbed my breakfast and coffee. I was not happy and realized there was a problem when the milk was almost as warm as the coffee. I was confused because I could hear the compressor running and the freezer was cold. On line directed me the right direction but I did not want to believe it. I did eventually confirm the evaporator coils in the freezer were frozen over because the heater was evap coil defrost heater was burnt out (multi-meter). I never realized a refridgerator had a heater, weird. The water dispenser in the freezer door had been freezing up for the past year. I could never find a real problem or solution to fix it. I did not find anything relating the evaporator coils freezing over causing the water line to freeze but thinking about the problem it made sense. The freezer was much cooler than it needed to be to cool the fresh food side. The temp control ensures the freezer is at least a certain temp, it did not limit how cold it would get. The hardest part of the repair was waiting for the part. I installation and reassembly of the freezer was easy. I replaced the cooling fan because the old one looked a little chewed up on the sides. It was not recommended or required. After the repair I was able to feel good airflow in the upper freezer and in the fresh food compartment. I think the fix will effect the temperature, the water line and also should help me get more ice from the ice maker (the freezer ducting feeds cold air to the ice maker area). Good luck.

I removed the cover on the back of the freezer side of refrigerator to expose the anti freeze element use the hair blow dryer to melt the ice on the coils put 2 towels to colect the water thats wath take me time, to replace the heath element was a 1 minute job.

snapped in the new stripper arm where the defected one was.

I used a mirror to locate the two small plastic tabs located on the underside of the ice dispenser light. I used a small flat blade screwdirver to push the plastic tabs forward to release the ice/water selector unit. I read about someone that did not see the tabs and ended up removing the inside of the freezer door, a two hour task! The ice and water control unit then slides out. remove the four rusty screws holding the dispensert and ice chute, the selenoid isthen easy to see.
Just replace the solenoid if your are having problems, I tried to lube it but to now avail. There is some rust in there so good time to clean up and put new screws in. Be care when removing the plastic lock tab on the circut board it breaks easely. If it does no big deal just make sure the connection is pushed in all the way. test your handy work before buttoning up. The solenoid comes with a new plunger so don't worry about cleaning the old one. The screws do not come with.

Following the advice of others on this site, I popped out the control panel by pushing up through the 2 outer-most holes on the under-side of the panel (the middle hole is unused). I installed the new solenoid exactly as shown in the PartSelect video. The new crank, spring, and flapper installed easily as well; I did apply a little grease to the hinge points on the crank to ensure no binding. I also installed a new microswitch. The wires are best removed from the old switch with a needlenose pliers. The old switch looked like it had some grease on the switch (where it makes contact with the cup lever) so I put some grease on the new switch as well. All-in-all, very easy and the frig works like new. It's nice to hear the flapper slam shut 4 seconds after dispensing ice.

looked at the video you supplied for repair.. that made it so easy to repair the problem. I felt quite confident in myself after the video.The repair went smoothly and the refridgerator wotks super thank you so much Rick

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

I replaced the original solenoid, which had rusted into one solid piece. OMG how easy was that!