PCF25PGSAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

There were no fastening hardware. The plastic stripper just snaps in place. I had to be patient and could not get it out until I put upward pressure on the stripper.

Disconnect main water line from behind refrigerator
Remove bottom panel from refrigerator
Disconnect hose from water valve
Remove metal hose guard from top left of refrigerator Carefully remove plumbers putty from around filter hose (you will be reinstalling this putty around new hose assembly)
Inside refrigerator remove MWF water filter and guard, and then remove two screws holding filter assembly in place (this requires socket set with 4” extension bar)
Carefully pull filter hose assembly towards you from front of refrigerator. Once assembly is out remove Styrofoam cover from old assembly and install on new assembly
To reassemble, simply follow this process in reverse. Good luck

The trouble shooting information on the web site indicated that the damper door within the climate control unit may be broken. This was easily confirmed and the replacement of the climate control unit immediately returned the food locker temperatures to the digital electronic thermostat settings. The part has an improved ventilation gasket interface between the food locker and freezer. The unit works perfectly again, and the food locker temperature is exactly what the thermostat setting is.

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.

Removed tray, threw out ice , removed 3 screws used 2 screw drivers to seperate part & re installed

Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Unscrewed the outer cover/base of the ice maker. Unscrewed the long lever that opens the ice chute. This freed up the feeder coil enough to pull it out enough to replace the cup drive. Once I replaced the cup drive, I laid it back down into the ice maker bin, reattached all the screws and it worked! The old cup drive had a tine broken off which would not allow the feeder coil to turn. It seems like a weak part and I anticipate I may have to replace it again in a few years.

Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!

Replaced defrost thermostat along with temp sensor watched the video on this page simple fix

The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refrigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explanation. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call.

replaced with new connector and it worked great. also replaced the water filter and that was super easy!

Removed ice bucket and observed the plastic drive bushing for the auger had the drive dog broken off. I removed the four screws on outer shell for the ice bucket, removed it and found the auger had key stoned a hole in the ice tray housing. At that point I decided to replace the ice bucket and auger assy. The new one works fine.

I removed the ice from the tray, took out the four screws from the tray, pulled up the metal spiral took out the old drive cup, replaced with the new one, replaced the screws and put the tray back in the freezer. A piece of cake. Thanks for your prompt service and the reviews on how to replace.