NTW5100TQ2 Amana Washer - Instructions

The washer agitated ok, so I figured it wasn't the motor or agitator. Watching the repair videos, I assumed the clutch might be the culprit. The videos are very good, so I should have taken the machine apart and actually looked at the clutch - it wasn't too bad. Trying to put the new clutch on anyway, I noticed it didn't turn on level. I thought it wasn't seated correct, but it was then I realized the shaft was tilting. This would explain the THUMP, and the grinding must be a gear inside the transmission. As much as I hate to get a new machine, given the tremendous downturn in quality, I think that because this machine is old, it is not worth a $200 transmission. Anyone need a brand new (but test fitted so not returnable) clutch?

Disassembled top control console and surrounding sheet metal cabinet per the video from this site. i then used a screw driver to carefully pry up each wear pad location individually and inserted the wood wedge. to about 1 1/2 inch height. rwmoved the old wear pads and popped in the new pads one by one. Closed up the unit and tested the machine . It ran like new. No more noise or viberation

Followed the video posted on the website. Everything went great - first repair attempt took about 45 minutes. Time consumed mostly due to the straps that hold the motor in place being very difficult to put back on and that the cabinet was a little difficult to replace due to the amount of rust around the bottom of it. Tried out the washer when done, and noticed a burning rubber smell. Took everything apart again, checked it, and everything seemed to be ok (made sure all four rubber feet were in place on the motor) so put it all back together again. Noticed the smell again so took it apart a third time, and when the motor felt pretty warm, decided to do an internet search for "burning rubber smell after replacing drive motor coupling." The answer popped right up - the replacement parts were not solid plastic like the original ones- they had metal on the inside of them, and needed to be tapped, a bit forcefully, with a hammer and socket until flush on the both the motor and transmission axles. Once the parts were flush, the straps that hold the motor in place snapped right on. Still a challenge with the rusted cabinet, but once all together again, worked perfect! Thanks to this site , I have fixed washers, dryers, and refrigerators and used them now nearly 20 years! I showed my daughter and granddaughter how to repair them and they don't hesitate to pitch in and help or handle the repairs on their own - again with much appreciation to this sitefor the accurate "how to" videos, the right parts, fast shipping, and great prices.

I followed the provided video for changing the centerpost gasket.

I successfully completed the repair. I will say that I had challenges at almost every step. Getting the inner basket off the centerpost was difficult, as was rocking the outer tub upward from the base.

If a man is somewhat handy, this is a doable repair. Be patient and take your time. The video is very helpful and I don't think I could've done the repair without it. It's a pleasure to watch an expert like Steve.

It's gratifying to successfully repair a major appliance such as a washing machine and I look forward to many more years of reliable service from this well-built appliance.

Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.

Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!

Repair went well and relatively easy, but did not fix the problem.
Suspect timer switch was the culprit. Nothing was clogged or plugged
up. Water pump and impeller were free and clear with no damage
or leaks.

We had to take the motor out and remove the coupling, when putting it back together we had some problems because the washer was on its side and the lid was open. After putting the motor and coupling back together we tried to turn it on, unknowing to us the lid was open so nothing would happen, finally we realized the lid was open. The actual repair was not complicated, just human error made it seem than way

Removed control assembly found lid switch. Had to unscrew ground wire from warsher popped clip on old switch came right out. Had to play with lid in order to remove. Popped new switch in screwed ground wire. Reinstalled control panel,plugged in and the way it went. Trouble shot with parts direct made it easy and saved me 350 dollars(new washer)

I loosened two screws which held the knob panel in place. I undid the two clips holding the cabinet and removed it. The pump has two clips holding it on, I removed those and the pump came free. Taking advice from these forums, I did not remove the hoses attached. I disconnected the wiring harnesses from the motor. The motor has 2 clips also, these being held on with screws. I removed the screws and the clips. THE MOTOR IS HEAVY.
You will see the coupling on the "spindle" of the motor. In my case, both plastic pieces were cracked in 2 places. I removed the old coupling and cleaned the "spindles" and lightly regreased.
The replacement pieces I ordered were the "improved" ones with the metal insert. They were a tight fit on the motor but I used a socket and hammer. (lightly). Line up the coupling pieces, reattach clips, DONT FORGET THOSE SCREWS HOLDING THE MOTOR CLIPS. Pump goes on next, etc. MAKE SURE ALL WIRING IS RECONNECTED! Cabinet goes back on, large clips holding cabinet to rear of machine go back on. Knob console flipped down and reattached.
Plugged it in and I was good to go! This washer is almost ten years old and this is the second time I have been able to bring it back from the dead, the first time being the agitator "dogs" wearing out. THANKS PARTSELECT!

Ordered and replaced the sensor. Fairly simple. Washer runs good now. Thank you!

leaned washer back on wall at or more than 45degree undid two screws off of motor. pulled old part off put new on reinstalled motor Done

Being female & never working on appliances, it was a challenge for me. I took the spinning unit apart: 1) Outer cap 2) Inner cap 3) Screw, nut & bolt popped out. Rusty & wouldn't lock into place anymore. Ordered nut & washer at about $10 + shipping. Total $17 from MayTag Rec'd right at 7 days via USPS. Used nutdriver/wrench to screw in new bolt w/washer. Wah la! That did it! Washer working great now! Now that I'm a "diy" handy person, I'm ready for my next challenge. Hopefully, none!

I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place and the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story

Ordered drain hose extender. It uses a rubber flange with hose clip to attach to washer's plastic hose. When tightened, the hose clip crushes the plastic hose and crimps it, causing a leak. My solution was to find a copper pipe flange that was the same diameter as the interior of the plastic hose to act as a bushing for the plastic hose. The hose clip could then be tightened without deforming the hose. Worked great with no leaks.