NTW4516FW1 Amana Washer - Instructions

Had no problem. The instructions included with the repair parts were very easy to follow and even specified the tools to use. I had it done, back on the washer and washing clothes in about a half an hour. The down side(no fault of the parts) was that the entire pump system went out on the second load and we wound up with a new Whirpool washer, since repairs were more than the machine was worth. Thanks Parts select for your help. I plan to search your net for more products. Fixing things from engines to microswitches is a hobby for me.

Remove softener dispencer, use flat tip screw driver to remove agitator cap, there is a slot, insert flat tip screw driver and pry up, once removed you will see the damaged dogs or cogs, use 3/8 drive ratchet with 10 or 12 inch extention and if memory serves me correct a 9/16 socket, loosen bolt and remove top agitator, there is a thrust washer between bottom and top agitator, it comes in the kit, use a little grease preferrably water resistant grease on top of washer, replace top agitator then the plastic device that the cog are inserted into and tighten bolt, put agitator cover back on with a gentle slap of the palm and reinstall softener dispencer, you are done and cloths will agitate properly again, fairly easy job and washer agitator works like new, great kit, would reccomend.

Followed the directions provided. Took less than 15 minutes and the washer works like new.

took off the soap dispenser, removed the agitator using a 7/16" socket with an extension. replaced the old top agitator dogs and retaining ring with new ones, re-installed top agitator on bottom, thenput whole assembly back shaft, dropped in bold and tightened. whole experience was fast and simple. the parts came fast and where a perfect fit.

Unplug washer
Take back panel off
Un plug lid switch
Take screwdriver snap out switch
Snap in New switch
Plug it in
Replace back panel plug in washer
Wash

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Unplugged from power, unhooked water lines.Then removed back cover and control panel and top set to the side. Rear rods very easy to do by yourself after those where done have help and tip it backwards and change out the front 2 then reassembled and hooked back up and tested. Everything worked like brand new !!!

Was the video and I started everything fell into place. Thank you very much

Removed two 1/4” screws from the backside of control panel. Plastic putty knife slide under front of control panel to release the clips and allowing panel removal. Shut water supply off and removed both hot/cold hoses from valves. Removed the two T-20 screws which allowed the removal of the existing leaking valve assembly. Installed in reverse and it worked perfectly!!

Replaced the drive belt and shift actuator but that did not fix the problem! So I ordered a transmission and this still did not fix it! I give up! Time to get a new washer!

I already had the old agitator out, so when I got the new one I put it in the tub. You have to spin it a little so it seats properly. I then tightened the bolt with a 7/16” socket and my wife was washing a load within 15 minutes

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.

My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!

Removed old one (2 screws) slid in place and screwed in.