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NG8639L53928 Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the NG8639L53928
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Won't Tumble
Removed lower front panel.

Removed door assembly* making note of the wire positions on the door switch
* When removing the door assembly DO NOT LET IT DROP DOWN! Doing so will destroy the door switch. Swing the door assembly upward from the bottom toward you as high as it will go then pull it free.

Removed the drum and belt assembly.

Removed the idler pulley and idler pully spring.

Vacuumed up the interior dryer floor and blew out the motor w/ comp air. Also cleaned the ribbed motor pulley with a nylon brush and brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.

Removed the drum tires and cleaned their shafts and internal bearing sleeves with brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.

Reinstalled the drum tires after lubricating their shafts with a very light coat of general purpose grease.

Replaced the idler pulley and idler pulley spring after cleaning and lubing shaft and pulley bearing as done on the drum tires.

Reinstalled the drum with the new belt (ribbed side down) roughly in place.

Reinstalled the front door assembly after reconnecting it's wiring making sure to insert it's top locking tabs with the bottom of the door held up high then swung down into place

Tensioned the belt by positioning the flat side of the belt that comes down the right side of the drum over the idler pulley flat side down and then the ribbed side of the belt over the motor shaft. You will have to move the idler pulley arm to apply full tension against the spring in order to have the slack to get it around the motor shaft.

Reinstalled the lower front panel.

Checked dryer operation OK.

This repair was rated a bit difficult because I didn't know the trick for removing/installing the door assembly and destroyed the switch. Furthermore, putting the belt back on is a somewhat difficult challenge because you have to do it mostly by feel
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing Idler Pulley Spring Door Switch Kit
  • Stephen from LEANDER, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Delaminated blower fan
I followed the online video on PartSelect website. No other instruction necessary.
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • Geoffrey from GREAT FALLS, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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I changed multiple parts on my dryer.
I totally disassembled the Dryer, and replaced the Guide Rollers, Blower Wheel, Idler Pulley Shaft, Idler Pulley, and Belt.
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • Edward A. from PHILADELPHIA, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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The dryer had been squeaking for at least 6 months when it finally became painfully loud and unacceptable
. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing Thrust
  • George from WORTON, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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Our Maytag dryer wouldn't spin under a load of wet clothes.
After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front panel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Daryl from WESTBOROUGH, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Drum did not turn on heavy loads, only light loads.
I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even for heavy loads.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • William from MELBOURNE, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Drum would not consistantly turn
Viewed video on website, however did not match model but put me in the ball park for an overall view. Thank goodness I had the insight to order the pully with the belt. I believe the pully failed first causing the problem with the belt. Recommend replacing both any way while you have it apart.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing Multi Rib Belt
  • Gary from Pocono Lake, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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the coils was not releasing the gas into the chamber.
I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back together the way u took it off!!
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Frank from EWING, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer heats once when turned on and then you have to wait 15 minutes to restart it
Well, had I read more of the reviews on this website, I would have learned that my problem was the valve coils. Instead, I assumed it was the igniter, so I ordered and installed a new igniter to no avail. I was about to just go buy a new dryer at Home Depot and spend $600, but I had to try again so I read more reviews on this website and began measuring resistances across the valve coils and discovered I had a bad one. I ordered both just to be safe, and installed them and quickly enjoyed my first uninterrupted dryer cycle in over a year (for over a year, I had been stopping and restarting my dryer about 10 times for each cycle). So THANKS for this website and to all the home technicians who posted symptoms, resistances, and how-to-do-its to help me get this done. It was an empowering experience to fix this and have bookmarked this website for any future appliance fixes. It's a great website with all its schematics and postings.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Scott from Lake Forest, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Door switch broke
Just follow the video. The hardest part is getting the top to disengage from the clips.
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • Howard from NEW ROCHELLE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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dryer was not heating
popped top up with flat screw-took out 4 screws (2 screws-1/4" nut driver - 2 phillips screws on bracket that holds coils in place) unplugged 2 wire lugs (1 three wire & 1 two wire) changed out bad coils screws back in-plugged wires back in -popped top back down .done
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • marlon from KINGMAN, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer not drying- gas valve coil resistance measured 'Open'.
Unplug dryer first! Remove toe panel with 1/4" nut driver on each lower corner. Gas assembly will be on the right immediately below right of drum. Use a short Phillips screwdriver to break loose two screws retaining hold-down plate on gas valve coils. I used an adjustable wrench to turn the screwdriver on screws which are not easy to apply torque to. Each coil will easily slip off stem. Disconnect catch on plug with very small flat tip screwdriver for each coil, then pull off connector. Ensure the 3-terminal coil goes to the front and the 2-terminal to the rear. Note aligning tips on coils which correspond to holes in hold down plate. Reassemble in reverse order except for toe panel. Plug in dryer and verify gas valve operation and flame presence. Replace toe panel.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Wayne from BAKERSFIELD, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Dryer was drying the cloths very, very slowly
I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Bill from SAINT CHARLES, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer would not heat.
Diagnose that the circuit is functioning up to the igniter. This is done by removing the peep hole cover on the bottom front panel, turn the dryer on and watch for a glowing igniter. My dryer would still ignite the first time because the coils would not show an "open" until they heated up. So if you see the igniter glow it is most likely your coils are bad. Remove two screws from lint trap area on top of dryer. Pry up on top panel at the two clips. Panel is on hinges, so flip it out of the way or just brace it with something enough to keep it off the front panel. Remove the two bolts from inside top corners of the front panel. Use a small punch or screw driver to push in on the tab to release the doors electrical connector. Pull straight up on front panel to remove it from bottom clips. The gas valve is very easy to get to without removing the drum. If needed for inspection or cleaning, just pull back on the belt tensioner to remove the belt from the motor and then pull the drum out. Or just use a stubby phillips screw driver to remove the bracket from the top of the ignition coils. Use a very small flat head screw driver to lift the locking tab on each electrical connector while removing. Remove the coils and place new ones in very same position (note the tab or key way of the coils faces up and are defined in the bracket). Re-assemble all parts making sure connections are tight and drum is correctly mounted. Note: if you remove the drum, return the belt back, in a loop, through the tensioner. This part hurt my head for a moment because I did not pay attention. Also a good idea to vacuum the debris and lint while your in there! As always check to make sure the exhaust pipe is clear. Have fun!
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Melissa from FOWLER, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer would not heat
Followed directions from Youtube video
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Michael from STOW, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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All Instructions for the NG8639L53928
121 - 135 of 334