MWFW8300SW01 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

First, I watched the video again just to make sure I had a firm grasp of the task ahead. I gathered up the tools and proceeded to begin. First obstacle: getting the washer tilted back enough to put the blocks under the front feet. The washer was sitting inside a square water pan with a drain connected directly under the middle of the washer. Therefore, the water pan did not move and I could only get the washer moved out far enough to 'barely' put the blocks underneath. Second obstacle: a clump of hair had gathered at the bottom portion of the door unnoticed and caused a slow leak from the bellows. This leak dripped down and rusted out two of the three screws. I had to use a socket set to get the screws out. Third obstacle: getting the pump removed from the bottom of the washer. With the drip, the pump had stuck to the bottom of the washer. Trying hard not to get cut on the sheet metal bottom, I pushed and pushed and pulled until finally the pump let loose. From that point on..smooth sailing just like the video. Washer fixed!

I found a YouTube video that showed how to totally dismantle the machine. I removed the top ( easy 3 screws). Removed the bottom access panel (easy). Removed the control panel (1 Torx screw and rather tricky to unsnap). Removed the door and hinge (2 Torx screws). Removed the below retaining band (easy). Disconnected the bellow at the front panel then removed the door lock mechanism (easy). Removed the front panel (easy). Removed the bellow clamp on basket side (screwdriver hose clamp type, a little tricky but not too bad). Installed the new bellow paying close attention to the drain holes being centered on the bottom. Assembled all parts in reverse order. The really tricky part was the bellow clamp on the front panel. Patients prevailed.

A previous person had broken the actuator switch connection so I replace it and got rid of the error code. But water poured out and I eventually took off the whole dispenser assembly and found a sock had stopped the big hose up where it enters the outer wash drum.

First, I looked at a replace bellows video on U-Tube that saved a lot of time in knowing how to proceed. You really need nutdrivers as sockets won't fit on the screws. Fitting the bellows on the large drum is not as simple as it appeared in the movie. It took several attempts to get it in place, but it was simple to place the clamp after it was there. Other than that, just follow the steps in the movie for your model

First I removed the bottom panels then the door then the top then the front control panel, I had to go to different web site to get directions on how to do this, after you remove screws you have to unplug U18 from electrical control box. Then remove bumper, find wire around front of bumper and remove using needle nose pliers, then remove back of bumper from tub using phillips head screwdriver. Then with help we replaced with bumper. and put the machine back together. My complaint is there were NO instructions in the box with the bumper and the ones on your web page are not detailed enough. I had to search the web "how to remove maytag door bumper" before I found how to remove it.

Got parts in mail. The new parts seem to be better than originals. Remove bottom front access panel to reach shocks. Revove nuts and bolts from bottom mount. Then remove any existing pieces from top mount. Twist in new shocks at top (this part was why I put the bit difficult. Sme were hard to twist.),then pull down and put bolt back in bottom mount and tighten back up. re-install front cover and clean up.

Perfect part...saved me hundreds on labor. Thanks!

Just follow the repair video and you are good to go. Very easy my 16yr old did it.

Searched internet for diagnosis. Ran diagnostic test using the diagnostic manual from whirlpool. The error code was F29. Replaced door latch but problem was not solved. Then order the Motor Control Unit. Removed old control unit through the top by removing the top washer cover and numbering harness positions with painter's tape. Install the new Control Unit and ran diagnostic procedure. The problem was solved. The washer is working fine.

Unplugged washer first! Removed front bottom panel by removing three screws, unscrewed the Drain Plug assembly by turning drain plug counter clockwise with a bucket to catch excess water from washer. Used pliers to remove spring clamps from washer agitator drain hose and then removed the spring clamp from the hose going to drain. Checked hoses for obstructions, then Slide Drain Pump assembly up to the right to remove. Then installed new Drain Pump assembly by sliding pump into slot to the left. Connected the agitator and drain hose to new Drain Pump and fastened with spring clamps. Plugged in AC line cord and turned washer on and started a quick wash cycle to check for leaks and to see if the water drained from washer properly. The water drained from washer and error code did not appear. The error code F21 reappeared during the second wash cycle. After closer inspection with a flash light, I found a large piece of cloth caught between the washer agitator and washer tub covering the drain by shining the flash light up towards the Agitator tub. This was solved by removing the Drain Pump assembly and all of the drain hoses again. Then removing the the large hose from the agitator tub and then removing the large piece of cloth from agitator tub. After reassembly, the washer worked like new!

I purchased the downloadable Maytag Maintenance Manual (PDF format) and followed some of the directions and pointers from this web site. All in all, it was a pretty simple process. 1) Take the top off - 3 metal screws, 2) take the control console and detergent dispenser out - 1 T-20 Torx screw and multiple plastic clips and 1 wire connector, 3) take the lower panel off - 3 metal screws, 4)take bellows retaining ring off -- spring retainer used a needle nose pliers, 4) take off door latching mechanism - 2 T-20 Torx screws and multiple clips + 3 wire connectors, 5) take front panel and door off - 4 metal screws, 6) remove bellows retaining clamp with phillips screw driver, 7) remove old bellows. Reverse the process to install new bellows. On installation, make sure that bellows drain holes are at the bottom of the door. Also, hardest and most time consuming part was installation of the metal retaining ring (spring retainer) fought with it for about a half hour before I finally got it on. BTW all metal screws for my machine were 1/4" head the remainder were all Torx T-20. Good luck!

Took less than 5 minutes to replace, So Happy;-)

The only issue I had was getting the hose from the tub re-installed, but that was my fault, the pump went right in. It couldn't have been easier. I was very pleased, received the replacement pump in just a couple of days, packaged very well for shipping, and had it installed in a matter of minutes. It took longer to take off front panel to access pump than it did to install it. Very pleased with "Part Select".....will use again!

Thank You so much for the other stories folks wrote on here! We were getting an F21 code on a regular basis. After finding a necklace and about $2.50 in change in the filter tray we found the problem. Over time I thought the washer was getting louder but it was so gradule that we really did not realize it.I had read other posts on here and ordered a new pump. After taking out 3 screws and 2 clamps the pump came right out and went in just as easy. Less than 15 minutes and we were back in business with a wisper quiet washing machine,Thanks Again everyone, Mike D.

I drained the water out of the pump area. Then took off all clamps and holding brackets. Next I pulled off the quick connect power plug. Then I put new pump in the way I took old pump out. The hardest part was unscrewing the bracket from underneath the washer. Cloth washer working fine.