MSX25DPBBAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I replaced both lower hinges without removing the doors. First a couple of observations. The hinge kit consists of two parts; the lower part (bolted to the case) consists of an “L” bracket with a plastic cam, and the upper plastic cam (attached to the door). For some reason the upper cam is available as a separate part . If both cams are plastic both are worn out. Don’t bother ordering the individual cam. If one hinge is worn out the other probably isn’t far behind. Consider replacing both at the same time. Examine the door check. It is an inverted “T” shaped bracket bolted to the door that also holds the door cam. The crossbar of the T are metal tabs that check the door swing. Way too fragile IMO. On mine the refrigerator side was cracked and broke off when I removed it. Since the stops are the same right and left. I just swapped them when I replaced the hinges. Saved $22. Replacing the hinges without removing the doors. {Warning if this technique goes wrong you will be stuck with a loaded door you can’t open.} Remove the vent grill. Stack three 2x4’s along the bottom of both doors ( 26” is about right ). Shim the door(s) up to compensate for the cam wear. About 1/8”) Use a 5/16 socket to remove the hinge from the case. Pay attention to placement of the shims and spacers. Then remove the door cam and stop bracket. Install the new door cam. Leave the screws a little loose. Replace the lower hinge and tighten the screws. Do both sides. Then carefully remove the shims and 2x4’s. Finish tightening the door hinge screws. Check the door swing. I used this technique twice. One to replace the refrigerator side hinge, then again to replace the freezer side hinge and swap the door checks. There were no problems and I saved the hassle of unloading and removing the doors.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

Removed old ice bucket with auger. Unscrewed front plates that form the front of the ice bucket. Replaced the front plates on the new part (ice bucket and auger). Replaced new assemblage. It took about 20 minutes. Had to empty ice out and put in a temporary cooler for storage. Bigger problem than the repair was diagnosing what was wrong. Pushed disagnose button and it said ice maker was working normallly. Careful examination of the ice bucket removed from refrigerator showed spring out of place on long metal rod that protrudes from the back of the ice bucket and fits into a square hole in back of refrigerator. Examined other end of rod that engages with plastic parts that run the ice auger and ice crusher mechanism. A piece must have broken off. That was the problem. Refrigerator ice maker now works fine as originally designed. Push crudh the ice crusher engages and you get crused ice. Push cubes and the icemaker crusher slides out of the way and you get cubes.

I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

The light shield is only held in with a single screw, so it was the simplest install ever - unscrew the old light shield (in my case, the remaining piece of the light shield), put the new shield in place, and screw it down. Doesn't get any easier than that.

i ordered this ice maker on sunday night and paid for the cheapest shipping. it got here monday morning and i couldnt believe it. super fast shipping!! works great

This is the easiest thing in the world - thanks for sharing other's installation - it took 5 mins - works perfect & we have clean ice - 4 easy screws to remove - anyone can do it!

I removed the ice maker,removed the broken piece of the old light shield,screwed the new light shield in place,and replaced the ice maker.It took all of 5 minutes.

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

I just followed the instructions on the video and it was exactly as they said......no surprises.

Screwed new bulb in socket

Really simple, I used a can of soup and a small piece of wood set under the door, and tapped it tight with the hammer to hold it in place while I removed the hinge. Two bolts at the bottom and two under the door itself. Installed the new hinge set, bolted tight and removed the shim.
The whole thing took less than 5 minutes

Easy repair. No need to remove the door. Simply prop up the door with blocks or books - remove hinge and riser assembly - replace with new parts. Total repair time about 15 minutes. Tools needed only an open end wrench.