MLG19PDSAW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

1 Unplug power.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Looking inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.

Followed the inclose instructions that came with the Motor and Control Board Conversion Kit very easy.

Apparently the only way to solve the notorious mold problem on the rubber gasket of the Maytag Neptune front-loading washer is by replacing the door gasket. I ordered the boot kit from you and my husband attempted to do the job without the benefit of an instruction sheet, but I was finally forced to download the repair manual from the Maytag website. Using a screwdriver to remove the the front door, the detergent dispenser, and the shroud, he was able to remove the old gasket, though stretching the spring that held the gasket in place required some strength. The only tricky part was stretching the spring again that holds the replacement gasket in place. With a little ingenuity, a screwdriver (and some dishwashing liquid to make the task a little easier) he finally accomplished it. It took him over 3 hours, but the job is done and the washer seems to be working fine. Your service was fast and efficient and I wouldn't hesitate using your service again, but enclosing a detailed instruction sheet would have been helpful. Now that he knows how to do the job he acknowledges that the it shouldn't take him more than an hour the next time, should the gasket need replacement again. Meanwhile I am going to try tackling the mold problem by leaving the front door open after wiping out the water that remains on the door gasket after each wash.

I changed out the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Mainly because that was what my research indicated was the problem. I then found some more information online that indicated the gas solenoid valves were bad. I ordered them from you and replaced them. The problem was fixed.

In order to replace the valves you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck

After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)

I used my screw driver to pry the old female end of the latch from the dryer unit. I forced the new female part of the latch into the hole and bang...45 seconds later the door closed securely --like new!

First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr

Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.

My repair (replacement of Maytag Neptune front load washing machine tub bearings) went well — knock on wood. The reason I took on the job somewhat confidently is I read online (probably from your site) the testimonial of someone who successfully did the same repair I faced. It is this persons sharing the recount of what it takes to do this job that gave me the motivation to take it on. For me it was around an eight hour job being my Neptune is a stackable (with the drier ontop). It has been a week now of operation with about 10 loads through the washing machine. It is sooo nice not listening to the previous worn bearing sound best described as a jet plane winding-up during taking off coming from the washer during its spin cycle. I pray the shaft seals stay snug. The job definitely was a major undertaking. Replacing the seal and bearing myself I saved probably saved $900.
Scott

Removed the Rear and Front Skins of the Washer. Removed the Belt and Tub Drive Wheel from the rear of the Tub. Removed the Front Rubber Gasket and Bracket Assy. Removed the Tub Cover w/Seal, Spinner Balance Ring (both were damaged.) Knocked the Spin Tub forward with a sharp hammer-rap on the Axle (the Axle is pressed into a Bearing that remains in the Stationery Tub.) Removed the Spinner Assy--found one of the securing bolts on the tri-Arm Support sheared off causing an imbalance. Also, the tri-Arm Support was cracked in various places. Replaced all bad parts using the Spinner Support Assy Kit and new Plastic Washers. Replaced everything else in reverse order then tested. Finally, reinstalled all Machine Skins. Very successful, about 3 hours.

I am a seventy year old recent widow, I have never repaired any appliance before. This was the first time I had ever seen the inside mechanisms of a dryer. I read the reviews on your site and followed the instructions of other do-it-yourselfers. However I could not locate the screws to remove the front of dryer. I would like to know if this dryer can be accessed through back of dryer, for future references. This is a 20 year old dryer, very well made, and I am reluctant to give it up. I think the job would have been much quicker and easier if the dryer front could be opened, as I would have also liked to check the main burner, valve, and belts, etc. for wear and if all was working efficently, as well as do a thorough cleaning. I did locate the igniter part through small door on bottom of dryer, I loosened the screw on igniter, unplugged small plug on wire harness and removed part. Ordered new igniter part and it arrived within less than three days, excellent service, as I live on the west coast. I replaced new igniter, turned on the gas, plugged in electrical cord, checked gas valve connection on back of dryer to make sure it was secure, turned on dryer and presto, heat, works just like new so far. A $25 part sure beats a $200 service repair or the cost of a new dryer.The repair job required about 45 minutes total time, most of that time spent trying to remove front of dryer. If a seventy year old woman beginner can do this, it should be a snap for most anyone else.

(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unplug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.

use an online repair manual for your model, but in the manual it states that the tub bearings are not replaceable, if you are a skilled person capable and competent with fixing mechanical things you should be able to replace the bearings, don't forget to put in a new seal. the bearings can be found at grainger.com , have the old ones in hand for proper size as these bearings are only sold by dimension. This repair will take some time and patience.

Opened the back panel of the washing machine. Removed the old belt and wrote down the part number. Shopped online for a suitable replacement and found a perfect match at part select.com. I put in an order and it was delivered in a couple of days! I opened the back panel of the washing machinie again. This time I decided to also replace the isolators that came with the kit. For this, I had to unscrew the motor and gently tug it free. I placed it on the floor of the washing machine. I then replaced the 2 isolators as described in the kit, reinstalled the motor and put the screw back on. I then proceeded to place the belt on the motor and on to the wheel. This took couple of tries to get the grooves right. I then tested the washing machine on a rinse cycle and things looked good. Its been working fine so far.

If your dryer is squeaking it is most likely either the idler pulley or drum rollers. First I took apart the dryer to see which parts I would need. I checked the drum rollers by spinning them with my hand to see if they spun freely and also checked them to see if they were loose, they were okay. Then I checked the idler pulley and found my problem, it was hard to spin it so I figured the bearing was shot. I sprayed some lubricant on the bearing to help with the squeaking while I waited for my parts. It took about 30 minutes to diagnose my problem and put the dryer back together.
I took some advise from another story saying to get the whole idler arm, shaft and pulley assembly. It might have cost me a few bucks more, but I did not want to run into the same problem he did (the pulley bearing was fused to the shaft). It took me about 20 minutes to take apart the dryer, install the part, and put it back together. If you are pretty good with fixing things, you should have no problem doing this repair.