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MLE655DW8 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the MLE655DW8
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dryer had a bad squeak
Removed dryer front, unscrewed 3 screws in center hub, replaced bearing assembly. Removed old basket seal with razor scraper, cleaned surface with mineral spirits, applied new basket seal. Replaced dryer front and project was done. Dryer has no more sqeaks.
Parts Used:
Front Lower Drum Seal Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Jana from Fort Worth, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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top glide was worn and "grabbing" clothes
Unplug dryer (gotta say it). Remove the two screws that hold in the lint catch. Remove top of dryer (two screws in back hold brackets, the front snaps on). remove two screws along the front edge to take front panel off the dryer (there are also clips). Unhook the two electrical connectors that control the door shut off. Once the front is off, remove the old glide and felt and install the new parts. Be sure not to step on the tube of contact cement, making it explode inside the bag. That sucked. Reassemble.
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide Front Lower Drum Seal
  • DANIEL from WEST HAZLETON, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Wretched screeching noise
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Paul from Broadalbin, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would not turn on
I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Michael from Erlanger, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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The Dryer Drum Would Not Move. Motor Worked But Drum Didnt.
First I read the manual on how to replaced the dryer drum belt. Second I took off the front panel. This would involving taken all screws from the top of the dryer face and the front panel. Thirdly I removed the exhaust attachment. Then I saw that the belt broke. Really it looked torned apart. I believe too heavy of a load in dryer. I then installed the new belt and reversed everyhing I did to start. The dryer runs great. This is not that bad of a job. If you can do it yourself, why pay hunreds on a service man to do the job.
Parts Used:
Multi-Rib Drum Belt
  • steven from parrish, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Wash tub would not drain/burning rubber smell
I removed the top of the washer by removing two screws on the back. I located and bypassed the lid switch to make sure that wasn't the problem. The problem still existed so I removed the two screws that hold the front panel of the washer. Using a flashlight, I located the drive belt and immediately saw that it was out of position and had pieces missing. I cut and removed the old belt, placed the new belt on the tub pulley and slowly maneuvered it onto the motor drive wheel. I then squeezed the tensioner pulley so that the belt was seated. I turned the timer dial which started the washer and it immediately began pumping the water out of the tub. Problem solved!
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Clay from Kansas City, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Several knob broke. Could not select and turn on washer-dryer combo
I removed the broken knobs and after that it was just plug and play.
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • Rownak from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer went into spin mode but would not spin
I removed the front panel to see the belt was snapped in two. The front roller is sping loaded, so I gave it a little tention, slid the belt back on and viola! it was that easy. If your washer starts to vibrate more and sounds louder than normal, get a belt as soon as possible because that may be the problem. Once I put on the new belt, the machine ran as quiet as it did when I first bought it.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Damon from Hinesville, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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Takes multiple cycles to dry clothes
I don't think it would take others as long as it took me.
I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.

The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:

http://www.partselect.com/PS1148434-Frigidaire-134503600-Dryer-Drum-Belt.htm?SourceCode=13&ModelNum=FSE748GFS0

Great site - thank you.
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Pamela from Portland, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Bearing Bracket Worn Out
Took off front panel, removed drum and replaced parts listed. A bit tricky to keep small parts in place. However, masking tape helped. Best of all was the online diagram of how the parts were assembled. In addition, taking step by step phone pixs aided in replacing parts since there was some down time between diagnosis and installation.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit Rear Drum Bearing Kit Rear Drum Bearing Kit Drum Support Bearing Dryer Drum Bearing Bracket
  • David from Fairdale, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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Terminal block, and wires were dammaged/melted
Used nut driver to remove screw and cover from dryer cord terminal block, used screw driver to remove two screws securing old terminal block, cut dammaged wire and stripped wire back and crimped on new terminal connecter, replaced old terminal block with new one, replaced two screws, installed new cord, and replaced cover plate and screw.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Edwin from Eagar, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer stopped in middle of cycle and wouldn't restart
followed video and replaced part( cleaned and vacuumed dryer while I had it apart),relatively easy repair
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Michael from HUDSON, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer wouldn't spin
I used a screwdriver to remove the front of the washing machine, fit the belt around the main pulley, held in the spring loaded tension pulley, and threaded the belt aound. It works great! I really need this inexpensive repair, since my job was downsized, and I can't afford to pay anyone.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Phillip from Huntersville, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer door part broke
Dryer door would not close, part had broke and fallen in. Once part was received it took less than an minute to put the new one in and I was back in business.

thanks for making it easy to find the part needed. and the delivery was fast!

bonnie J.
Parts Used:
Door Catch
  • Bonnie from Saint Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squeaks; rusty spots on clothes
1. Released the front latches under the dryer top and flipped it up.
2. Removed two screws holding the dryer front in place and flipped it down.
3. Tore off old drum glide and lower seal.
4. removed most of the remaining fuzz with sandpaper.
5. Glued the new seals in place.
6. Put everything back together.

All in all, about 30 minutes of effort. I managed to come away with only minor cuts and scrapes.

Much cheaper than a new dryer!
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide Front Lower Drum Seal
  • Karen from Springfield, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the MLE655DW8
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