MHWE950WR02 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Just removed the bottom cover to access the water pump. Drained the water through the filter housing. One screw and two hose clamps and the pump was out. Installed new pump and checked for leaks. None found so the cover was secured in plase. Great news, WIFE is happy.

Followed the video on the website. Very easy to replace the part and it fixed the problem. The trickiest part was reinstalling the ring that holds the rubber gasket in place.

It was so easy my wife replaced the part.

simple repair. After reading other reviews my husband was confident he too could do the repair. He was right, we were so very glad not to have had to call for service.

I removed the one screw that holds pun
mp in place. I pulled to the left and foward about an inch to remove hoses and unplug wire. then pulled pump assembly out. The new one went right in. The wire plug went right in without any customizing. I think this was about as easy as it gets.

Removed three screws holding the cover, then one screw holding the pump assembly in place. After unplugging the power, it took two minutes to remove the clamp-rings from the hoses. The reverse was equally idiot-proof! But THIS "idiot" had 10-thumbs which added to the time to replace the lock rings! Added an extra 5 minutes at most! _grin_

I took off the cover, removed one screw. Removed two hoses and the electrical connector. It only 5 minutes to replace the old pump with the new one.

Take off top of washer and the flowmeter is in the back lefthand corner on the top of the washer. Replaced the water level switch on the top righthand of the machine also. Got about 150. 00 Total invested w/service call from local tech. F-20 has not came back yet. I hoped it fixed it washer is only 3 yrs. Old. -Gd

it was a really easy fix. unclamped the 2 hoses and took out screw, removed water pump. Connected two hoses back and set in place then screwed in locking screw. could not have been any easier.

Easy fix,
I remove the front lower panel and the shocks where right in front of you , with a little twist with an adjustable wrench the cam right off . I removed and the replaced and it the same when you remove the back panel.
P.S when installing the shocks start by connecting to the bottom and then connect to the drum it will make it lot easier.
Good luck on your repair

removed door from washer, set flat on table and just loosen up the screws all around, removed old hinge and replaced with new hinge, very easy. back to washing clothes.

Washer was on a 13 inch high platform I built for front.load Heat washer and dryer. Removed 3.screws from bottom of front panel and had access to all 4 shocks..front and rear. All shocks were unattachedeither at base or on tub. Easy to install all 3 from front without moving Mach. I figured if 1 or 2 shocks failed the violent.movement broke the other 2. Purrs like.a.kitten now. No bearing.or spring.damage.

1/4 inch nutdriver, took the top and the front panel of and renew all rubber parts / hoses. It looks less than 1 hours. All parts like factory quality, everything fits perfect.

REMOVE AND REPLACE. FLEXIBLE RUBBER CONNECTOR WAS NOT A EXACT REPLACEMENT, THE ORIGANIL HAD A BACK STOP VALVE, NOT SURE OF THE EFFICATE ON MACHINE.

First,we took apart the front of the washer and then we removed the old bellow and put the new one on.After we put back up the front of the washer and open the door to put the clamp on then after we unlocked it.After it was working good as new.