MHWE500VP00 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Checked for 120 V AC at pump connector. It was present . Pump was hot. Ordered new pump. Changing the pump is a piece of cake. Just tilt machine back and rest on a brick. Remove 3 5/16th screws . Disconnect 2 hoses and 1 plug. Took 10 minutes tops. Back in business.

I am a 63 yr old woman. I was able to remove the washer door, take off the broken hinge, install the new hinge, and place it back on the front of the washer in less than 15 minutes! It is a front load washer and designed for one person to do this. I YouTubed a less that 2-minute video first. The hinge fit perfectly!

We do not wish to have our repair published. The part itself was perfect and corrected our leaking problem but we did have difficulty with the installation despite detailed instructions. We appreciate a good price for the perfect part!

I followed the directions as given in a video from this site, and it was pretty simple. It can be done without power tools, although I used screw driver heads on a drill. The only iffy part was that some of the star-shaped screw heads were shallow and I had to be careful not to strip them. In brief, the fix required removing the door from the machine, unscrewing the inside of the door from the outside, removing the broken hinge, inserting the new hinge, re-aligning the inside and outside of door, screwing it back together, and re-attaching to the machine.

Had difficulty getting the door off the washer because I didn't realize there were two hooks in addition to the two screws that held the door to the washer. I reviewed the repair video several times through out the repair. Probably unscrewed more than I needed. Got the new hinge installed on the door. The problem was I couldn't hold the door at the right angle to get the hooks inserted. The washer is near the wall so I couldn't open it all the way and bending over at an odd angle didn't help. At nearly 80 I don't have the strength I used to!! After trying and with the door falling on my arm I gave up and called a friend. We did have difficulty getting the hooks inserted correctly. I held the door and she got the hooks in. On the good side, the hinge part fit like it should!!

replaced actuator switch. It did not fix the problem. Replaced actuator arm, and fixed. Needed the switch because gears were stripped. Needed the arm because it seems over time, the arm straightened, thereby increasing its length so that the rotation of the switch bound up during its cycle.

Only needed a pair of pliers for the clamps on the hoses connected to the pump. Removed the old pump ( no tools needed) and reinstalled the hoses. Works like a charm!

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

Thank You so much for the other stories folks wrote on here! We were getting an F21 code on a regular basis. After finding a necklace and about $2.50 in change in the filter tray we found the problem. Over time I thought the washer was getting louder but it was so gradule that we really did not realize it.I had read other posts on here and ordered a new pump. After taking out 3 screws and 2 clamps the pump came right out and went in just as easy. Less than 15 minutes and we were back in business with a wisper quiet washing machine,Thanks Again everyone, Mike D.

I drained the water out of the pump area. Then took off all clamps and holding brackets. Next I pulled off the quick connect power plug. Then I put new pump in the way I took old pump out. The hardest part was unscrewing the bracket from underneath the washer. Cloth washer working fine.

Confirmed the issue was not a blocked trap at teh base of teh machine. Renoved the top of the machoine (Three 7mm hex-head sheet-metal screws). Removed the small hose (rubber tube) from the Water Level Pressure Switch. Confirmed the hose was not blocked or constricted. Removed the failed Water Level Pressure Switch by pinching the spring-retainer with needle-nose pliers. Mounted the replacement WLPS. Connected hose. Tested the machine. PartSelect online catalog and delivery service was painless, quick, correct, only a little over-priced and easy.

Unplugged the machene. Removed the top cover (3 screws on back top). The pressure switch is back on the right wall. Turned it clockwise until its top almost pointed forward (at me) and it could be removed. Disconnected if from its wiring (pushed small tab down with my nail and pulled it out); and from the black tube (secured the tube with scotch tape, so that it wouldn't slip down inside the machene while I work). Unpacked the new switch, connected it to the wiring and to the tube, pushed it in place (square(ish) hole) until it clicked, put the top cover back in place (needs to be slid in front) and screwd three bolts holding it into their places.

Unplug Unit, remove lower cover screws with screwdriver that has 1/4 drive at end, put 2 gallon bucket at strainer remove water. Remove inlet hose clamp and outlet hose clamp, disconnect pump motor wiring plug, aggressive push to RIGHT popped right out. put a dab of Vaseline on new units rubber base slide back in reverse order. Plugged in check for leaks put back together, Repair took less than 15 minutes, working great! WHAT I FOUND IN STRAINER: LEGO'S-CHANGE-PAPER CLIPS, enough things to destroy the impeller !

Unplugged electric cord and turned off water supply. Remove 3 screws @ rear of washer and removed top panel. Removed clamps on hoses and electrical connector to flow meter, removed and replaced with new flow meter. Replaced the top panel, turned on water supply and plugged unit in. Finished in less than 15 minutes. Saved myself several hundred $