MGR7662WS3 Maytag Range - Instructions

I was able to perform this repair without removing the oven door. Removed cooking racks (2) Removed oven bottom (2 screws), removed flame spreader (2 screws). removed igniter (2 screws - used a 5/16 hex socket wrench). On this model range the lower screw on the igniter is on an angle (about 45 degrees) and very close to the heat reflector pan; patience and perseverance was required to remove it. - do not know if there is a special tool that would help making removal of this screw easier. If it wasn't for this one screw, the repair should take about 15-20 minutes. Replacement of the igniter solved the ignition problem.

switched out latch asy,rear

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Found that the two screws securing the bottom had rusted away allowing me to just lift the old bottom out. The new one fit in place exactly and really did not need the screws. Done in 2 minutes.

Removed bottom panel. Unscrewed igniter. Replaced igniter. Reinstalled panel. Started oven before replacing panel. Easy install.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Followed youtube instructions: lifted clips on door hinges, removed door. removed screws, removed rear cover, replaced right hinge. reassembled door. caution: door handle will fall off when top two screws are removed. Alignment of screws is some what difficult, requires awl.
Replace door, return locking clips to forward position, check door for operation.

Simply removed three screws that held the door trim in place. Once the screws are removed be carefull because the front door glass is held in place by the bottom door trim. Otherwise an extremely easy repair.

I have removed this piece once before and painted it,
but it is difficult to prepare surface.

I tried to replace the part without removing the door
but had difficulty getting the screws to line up.

So, I took the door off. Forgot that you are supposed to jam
the spring hinges in the open position before you remove the door. Manual describes how to do this but picture is not very helpful. So I made two wooden dowels about 3/8" in dia by about 3/4" long. Opened the hinge with a screwdriver and jammed the dowels in place.

Door Trim went on easily and the oven door went back on quickly.

Surprised they don't make this trim piece with rust proof material.

Removed the old, broken drawer glide by removing the Phillips head screw. Then placed the new glide into place and fastened with the existing screw.

The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.

Remove 2 screws holding oven bottom in place.Lift out the plate and replace with new plate. The hardest part of the replacement was lining up the screw holes. By the way i have never received such great service from any internet company as Part Select. I ordered the part on a Monday and the part was at my home the NEXT DAY and installed that evening.

Bought new igniter.
Pulled stove from wall and turned off gas and disconnected power cord.
Removed oven racks.
Removed oven floor.
Removed heat shield/dissipater thing.
Removed 2 screws holding igniter to gas burner tube.
Disconnected the wire (this was harder than expected because igniter had only a few inches slack in the wires), took off back to try to find better access to wires, no help there, door was not easily removable so difficult to reach in with 2 hands to pull wires apart, eventually I got it.
Connected new wires.
Replaced igniter to feeder tube with 2 screws.
Plugged back in, turned gas back on and tested.
Reassembled heat shield thing, oven floor, racks.
Done.

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.