MGD5630HC0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

I removed the top first followed along with removing the side bracket that holds the circuit board. I then proceeded with removing the bottom cover and front panel. I disconnected the front panel from the control board and was able to slide the front panel upward. The door and blower housing was a bit tricky to pull out without thinking I was damaging something. I then replaced all the seals and cleaned the dryer after removing the drum and belt. I also replaced the drum support rollers. Afterwards I put everything back together and had an "E1" error and I pulled the thermostat out and wiped it down from all the lint and dryer worked perfect after that. Dryer takes the right amount of time to day clothes and no more rumbling noise. The instructions videos were VERY helpful.

Removed the top of the unit. Then removed the control board by removing a few screws. Next was to take the top portion of the front of the unit away from the frame by removing the upper level of screws and loosening the lower row of screws. This allowed me space to clip out the faulty door switch and connect the new part. Put it back together and the unit sings like a bird with a worm!

Seemed daunting but pull the front off and the drum is basically just perched inside on some rollers. You have to pull it out to really reach in and wrap the 96”+ band around it and to motor and don’t forget to tension it with tension pulley if you don’t see that if your belt broke!
Another bonus is after 10 years I got to remove the softball size fur ball rolling in the squirrel cage fan , big help on air flow!!!

Took back panel off, and it was really easy putting the new idler pulley in.

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

first of all there is no video for this model dryer (cabrio accu-dry) the main difference is that the console is removed by removing 3 screws across the back top of console then using putty knife release spring fastener on each side ,slide forward and lift. remove one screw at top of control board and remove from plastic mount,and unplug connecting wires.remove top of cabinet lifting up and forward. The rest of install is typical to other models. The back panel doesn't come off this model. You have to access everything from the front.

Disassemble dry. Put on new pulley wheel. Greased pulley wheel. Put dryer back together. Works great. Yours truly G.B.

pull the back off and replace the pulley.

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.