MFF384KCF Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

I am a DIY kind of wife. My husband works late most nights and I get home in the afternoon. It was really quit simple except for the element plug slipped into the back of the stove. So I had to pull the stove out from the wall and take a couple of screws out of the back and push the plug back through. It was scarry for a minute but it all ended up just fine and we had a wonderful dinner that night.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

repair was exceptionally easy. Did not need the fiberglass tape that was mentioned in online repair steps. Just slipped the wires off and then back on the new element. Any 70 year old can do.

Quite easy: Removed the two hex head screws with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Gently pulled the old element out of the rear of the range with the connectors still attached. Next I disconnected the connectors from the element and attached a small "paper binder" clip to each of the connector wires to keep the connectors from pulling back through the "Hole". Lastly, I connected the two connectors to the new element (released the clips) and gently pushed the unit back into place and re-secured the hex screws. ALL DONE! Very very easy....

Followed the parts select video. However there were differences. Four screws to release stovetop from brackets very difficult to break free even once correct bit identified. No spring clips but studded screw and coil springs let elements fall right off underside bracket. Need fours hands to hold back in place to screw bracket back in place to hold elements.

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

moved the range out to access back
removed 5 screws from back panel
removed 1 screw from thermostat installed new one
replaced screws, done in 20 minutes
problem solved

Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

I followed the video on the website. The probe is on back of the oven. Just unplug part and replace. That was not our fix all though as I later found that the igniter was not working. The igniter is also an easy fix but you access it through the front of the oven. Also an easy swap.

Oven is working great now.

Our issues kind of fell between two of the descriptions so I went with high percentage cheaper fix first.

If your oven is intermittingly getting hot or to temperature of 100, it is probably the igniter.

Have used PartsSelect for Washing Machine, Dryer, Refridgerator and now the Range. Super easy to figure out needed parts and videos walk you through the repair.

Thanks

turned power off at fuse box took of back panel about8-10 nuts unhooked wires with pliers that went to element then took2 nuts out that held element up and 2nuts holding element took out and put new one in works great