MER6775BAS - Instructions

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

We removed the rear panel, then removed the stove top, then removed the sides. We undid the straps that hold the insulation in place. Pulled out the old insulation and put in the new. Replaced every thing we took off. The nastiest thing was the old insulation full of mouse droppings and even a few dead mice.

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

not to offend anybody but what i learned on prior posts helped alot..
1. remove unit and unplug.
2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you.
3. remove back panel to unit.e.
4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven.
5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from rear of unit. Pull gently towards you.
6.unscrew support from inside oven.
7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Our Maytag electric range has a small oven on top that doubles as a toaster, and food warmer. The lower one is a big oven suitable for Thanksgiving Turkey Etc. It is also a broiler as is the top oven. The top one had the bottom element burn out about 5 months back as well. Now the bottom element on the lower oven had burned out as well. The oven has some age on it, but when I looked to replace it I saw it would be approx $1800.00 - $2000.00 for a new one. I knew the elements were replacable and thought if I should call out the lonely guy, the Maytag repairman. Nope, I pulled the stove out disconnected the 220 power supply. I got the Model number off the back stamped info plate. I looked up Maytags parts on Google and the first one was PartSelect.com. They have easy fill-in spaces for Model and Make and a schematic of the oven and all it's pieces are visually displayed. I found the part I needed and ordered. It arrived in two days, very reasonable, very fast shipping. Pulling out the old elements required only a battery operated screw driver, a flash light, and a magnetic dish to keep track of the screws.The removal of the rear panel takes about 10 sheet metal screws. I marked the leads I disconnected by color with a felt tip pen on the back. I disconnected and removed the aforementioned clips, cleaned inside the oven and placed the new element in, reconnected everything on the back as it had been according to my color assignments, replaced the back with battery operated screwdriver from the magnetic dish, reconnected the 220V power supply. Done, in about 30 minutes; I saved a bunch over a new Stove and at least a couple hundred over a service call. Easy and satisfying.

turn off all electric to the wall oven. removed the old broiler. replaced the new broiler and turned on the electric. checked the brolier one to see if it worked....it did thanks for the customer service for her help in finding the replacement part.

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

Following the instructions from the internet, removed the two screws holding the stove top, pulled top toward me, and disconnected the two cables. Lifted the top off and placed it on the blankets I'd spread out on the floor. Unscrewed the four screws holding the burner(noting there mounting numbers), then loosened the four bracket mounting screws, which allowed me to rotate the brackets away from the burner. Moved the old burner to the side, and reattached the mounting brackets to the new burner. I then moved each wire from the old burner to the new burner. Re-installed the stove top, and cooked lunch.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.