MER5555QCW Maytag Range - Instructions

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

Remove door
Remove front cover of door
Remove hinge screws
Put back together.

After the repair I determined that the door did not need to be removed from the stove. The top 3 screws needed to be taken out, the front clase needed to be slid out by pushing it right to left or left to right. Then the bracket that held the inside screw assembly needed to be removed. The new handle needed to be installed and the bracets put back into place. The front glass needed to be reinstalled right to left or left to right. The hardest part of my install was putting door back on the range, the hinges kept popping out of place before setting into the range. The best way to replace the hangle would be to not remove the door from the range.

The part fit perfectly.Ther repair was logic. The door was of course heavy . I needed an extra hand.
I would have appreciated of instructions were included with the part. Also a web link on how to do it would alos have helped greatly

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

We bought the replacement Ceramic plug and wires, and opened up the jennair cooktop piece and rewired the NEW coil guide into the system. It works great.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

used the supplied parts...very easy. The parts were exact replacements.

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

The first time is always the hardest. I took out the bottom cover that had 2 screws saw the broken element took out 3 screws to the emement. I then pulled out the stove unpluged it from the wall and took off the back panels several screws and found the element connected to the wires I marked the wires left & right and disconected them. I reversed proceedure to install the new element. The oven still won't go over 250 degrees I think when the element blew it to the circuit board with it.

Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

I simply pulled out the old coils and plugged in the new ones. I saved the little pieces that accompanied each coil, because I didn't know what they were used for.