MER5552AAS Maytag Range - Instructions

Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

It is very easy shut off the power yo the stove at the fuse box, unscrew the two screws and pull the element out replace and screw back into place.

super easy after watching the how to video you had on it and iam the wife not the husband it was so easy thanks

I unplugged the cord to the stove. Then I removed the two screws on the broken heating element. Once the screws were removed, I slid off the two wires attached to the element prones. Grab the new element and attached the two wires. Reinstalled screws. Plugged in the cord, and turned on oven. Heating element came on.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Turned oven circuit breaker off. Removed oven racks. Removed 2 screws from old element. Pulled element out slightly disconnected wires on each end and reattached to new element. Pushed back in and reinstalled the 2 screws, reinstalled oven racks and turned circuit breaker back on. All done in about 20 minutes.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

-Disconnected power from oven at the circuit breaker.
-Removed oven door and racks.
-Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall.
-Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads.
-Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or weaken the wires at the connector.)
-Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position.
-Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire.
-Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat.
-Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure.
-Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch.
-Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short.
-Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select
-Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads.
-Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally.
-Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.

I had the part overnighted since Thanksgiving was in two days and we needed to be able to use the oven. I saw a video on the website that instructed how to unplug the stove. Unscrew the baking element from the inside of back wall of oven. Gently pull out the part to where it is attached to wires. Simply pull apart the male part from female parts. Replace the old element with new element and attach it to the pulled out wires. Then gently push back wires inside the back wall of oven. Screw the attachment back in. We then plugged the oven back in. Turned on the oven to about 300 degrees. We put an oven temperature gauge inside and after a time the oven temperature was at 300 degrees and steady. It was fixed. Thanksgiving was on!

the hardest part of this repair was the wait for the element to arrive in the mail - which was in 4 business days - then took 5 to 10 minutes to get to circuit breaker box in garage. That was the longest part of the repair. My husband took the door off the oven after turning the circuit off in the garage. Followed directions from others who made the same repair and it was done in 2 minutes! Super easy - thanks for saving us money during this time of tight budgeting around the holidays! You're a lifesaver!