MEDB750YW2 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.

Replaced

Remove bottom panel was able to remove the element from the bottom without taking off the whole front and removing the drum simply remove the panel remove the two wires connected to the coil unbolted the bracket that was held on by two small bolts then removed the 4 bolts holding the bracket together was able to remove the heating element and then put everything back together did not have to remove the drum the top or the back panel To complete the repair I am not an appliance repair technician just a homeowner but I was still able to repair this myself and it’s working just fine

Just like video except there were two screws in back to take control head off. Be prepared to have shop vacation ready. Clean dryer duct too. Have bandaids ready. Plastic triangles are not easy to take off, video makes it look easy.

Inside the dryer tub, remove the filter housing by removing two phillips head screws. Unplug the sensor wires, note when replacing wires, black wire goes on upper sensor.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.

Took the old filter out and inserted the new one- works great!!

I'm still waiting on my idler pulley. It arrived at Fed EX depot in Tracy CA on December 14th and has still not been shipped. So it is pretty fucking hard for me to install it! Maybe if you had customer service that would answer their phones or reply to my Emails would be helpful

Viewed a video provided on this site for disassembly etc. It was not my exact same model, but the instructions were pretty much spot on. The main issues we had were just that it was bulky etc. and somewhat heavy. We could not really work on it in place, so we had to drag it to the kitchen area. I found the existing heater element to be open upon inspection. Changed it out with the one I purchased which was an exact replacement. The drum rollers, motor pulley, and belt did not really look bad, but since I ordered the repair kit, I went ahead and replaced all of them. I was glad I did because it is much quieter now. The only thing I did differently was I cut off the existing plastic triangle keepers for the rollers with my diagonal cutters instead of work them off with a small screwdriver like in the video, which saved some time and frustration. New ones were provided in the kit I purchased anyway. I also would recommend marking the front of the drum somehow so there is no confusion which way it goes when you put it back together. Works as good as new now, good for another 10 years (I hope).

Pulled out the old and slid in the new filter

Very bad design to keep door shut but very simple to fix. Just screw bad strike out and screw new one end. Whirlpool should have gave extra when you buy this type dryer.

Like another reviewer's repair story, I decided to take the door apart. It was too difficult, at least for me, to get the faulty catch out without damaging either the the door or my hands. This is why I give it an "easy" rather than "very easy" rating and put the total repair time at a half hour or better. I also decided I wanted a second person to help - not with getting the door apart or putting it back together, but because a second pair arms was very helpful in rehanging the door well. We removed the door (four screws), marking which side of the hinge needed to be flush with the actual dryer when rehanging. Then we took the door apart, which comprises another sixteen screws (four on each edge). We used an electric drill but I'm sure it could be done manually. We used needle nosed pliers to get the faulty latch out of that side of the door, then replaced it with the "back up" from the other side. Then we put the door back together and carefully rehung it. Done. We did decide that, in future, all kids (we have three boys) slamming the door would be severely beaten. Pushing the door until it's against the dryer, then PUSHING (as opposed to slamming) the latch ONTO the catch pin on the dryer is obviously what was intended. However, I've learned not to count on my boys being particularly conscientious, so I'd ordered four replacement latches to keep on hand. This machine was delivered in April 2009 and I replaced the latch in April 2011. Based on this and our laundering habits, I'm sure the others will be used long before the dryer calls it quits.

Received in two days, open box, installed part. Pretty easy, fast service. I'm a repeat customer and will use these guys in the future.

Removed the broken catch with a pair of needle nose pliars and replaced it the same way. Took about 10 minutes. Saved a Service Call

I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.

We watched the video at whirlpool.com! Made it so simple anyone could have done it!