MED7230HC1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I followed the video provided by ‘Partselect’; although it was not the exact model it was close enough to get the job done with high confidence.

Removed the top, removed lower front cover, removed the front, removed the belt, removed the drum and the back. Removed and replaced roller support shaft and drum roller’s. Completed all Front and rear support for drum. Replaced drum , replaced drum roller belt and replaced back, completed replacement of the top, front.

Just follow the repair video, it was easy!

Remove screws, dryer sensor on screen. Put sensor back in place. Secure with screws. The way you take it off go in reverse.

Followed online video very easy and dryer works like new one....

Couple screws behind the electrical panel at the top and the top pushed back and was able to remove front panel, and then it was pretty easy. Take the two screws on top front, lint trap screws . The lint trap vent needs to come off. Then the belt, drum comes out to access the idler pulley. I did replace two drum wheels, I saw there was 5. I would recommend replacing all of them, they didn’t move well…..

Took the dryer apart and replaced the idler pulley with bracket and the drive belt

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

I searched for a replacement by entering the model number and serial number of my Kenmore elite dryer. Ordering was extremely simple and it took less than a week to arrive. It fits perfectly.

Dropped new filter in.

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

Looked it up on YouTube. It told me to take the front panel off. I did, changed the belt, put the panel back on and it works perfectly. The part came in the time it was supposed to and it was the correct part. Thanks.

Very easy repair... The video was really helpful too. I was able to find a different video that was closer to our model. (Front Loader HE) It probably took me a little longer than needed but I took the time to shop-vac everywhere I could, since it was all easy to get to. I opted for next day shipping so the shipping charges were more than the part. Tools I used were: Cordless drill-screw driver, 1/4in. socket, Phillips head bit and needle nose pliers for the control panel connections. Thank you again for making this so easy. Saved us a lot money by not calling an appliance repair tech.

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.