MED6630HW2 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it

I removed all the panels, removed the tub, replaced the pulley, put the tub back in and replaced the panels. Just when I screwed the Last screw in the doorbell rang with the door switch which I installed immediately.

Glass door was broken with part still in door.
-put tape on glass so it would not fall on me as I dissembled door.
-removed and disassembled door by removing all screws/ torx.
-used shop vac to get most of the shards out then flushed with water for the rest.
-used shop vac to dry door.
-put back together. remember to put big bulge of glass down. the rounded part of the door is the bottom. do not over tighten as the screws go into plastic.
-all skill levels can do this job. it will only go together one way. the glass has a notch bulge that alines with the bracket. worst case is you have to put it together 3 times before you get it right. the door is reversible so it can open either to the right or the left giving you four combinations on how to install the glass. don't over tighten the phillips as they go into plastic. Go for it.

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

Removed two hex screws from upper back clips. Removed 2 Phillips screws under lint trap. Used flat head screwdriver to pry up top on front right and left side clips. (FYI: top pry's up off retaining clips in front). Remove two hex screws on right and left front panel. Un-plugged wire harness front right side. Lifted up and removed front panel. This hold the drum in place. Simply removed drum, installed new belt, replaced the two drum wheels and put everything back together the same way I took it apart. 30 Minute project :)

Replaced 4 wheels and new belt

sounded like a pair of shoes was in the tub every time i started it no matter what size the load was. Replaced the back two rollers first and decided to start it to see how it sounded. We were glad. Only the back rollers were bad and the dryer was quietly running again. We would suggest replacing the back rollers first to everyone because the front rollers are more complicated to replace and they may not have to be at all.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

Followed instructions for standard blower wheel replacement and repair kit installation, which were straight forward. The only real issue I ran into was removing the blower wheel, The instructions say to turn it clockwise and remove it, however this wheel had been on there for a long time and it also has a taper shoulder so it was not coming off without a fight which is why the dremel tool is listed. I had to cut the old bower wheel out in pieces so I could remove the electric motor, which was easy. Once out and on the bench and only the metal hub left on the shaft a 7/16" wrench and large vise-grips got it to break loose. The good side of this is it allowed me to blow out any lint that had built up on the motor, like new again.

The repair went well, using the whirlpool repair manual and looking at the video from PartSelect. The machine was a bit different than the one in both the video and the manual but that did not cause any problems. The only tricky part was to reinstall the belt "blind" behind the motor, easy to pinch your fingers and also get scratched by the sheet metal edges. To make it easier for that part I supported the drum with the old belt and a bungee cord to the garage frame so I did not have to hold it up and work under it at the same time. When the drum and new belt were in place I just cut the old belt, it was going to the trash anyway.. I replaced the belt and the tension pulley, witch was not turning easy and worn by the belt. I also put some grease ( SUPER-LUBE, www.super-lube.com) on all pulleys. It took about 2 hours because I am 78 years old and have heart problems.

A) Watched video of repair on site.B) Looked around for competitive prices and decided on PartSelect because of original parts, price, and 1 year guarantee.C) Proceeded to take dryer apart like video showed. Error was my dryer front panel has two screws covering the heater box and that was all I needed to remove and replace heater instead of dismantling the back. Good news though was, I removed all the lint build up in the machine so not a waste of time. Be sure not to touch the new heater wire coils as oil from your hands will destroy the heater prematurely. Heater was original Whirlpool ! I'm a happy camper.

Just follow the repair video, it was easy!