MDB7601AWW41 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

replaced rack

Ordered part. (Part was larger than the original . That is it dis not fir int supports tha same as rhe original. Hut i modifird the support by assin copper wire to fanten the heater to the supports.) The instalation was no pronlem with a little engineering. Works like a charm, Wife Happy Most important result.
Elmer

Removed two screws at the top of the base washer. Three screws removed down both sides of the base washer. Lifted washer out enough to see the cable and spring connections. Removed cable and replaced with new and re-connected. Slid washer back into position and installed screws.

1. Remove both upper and lower dish trays
2. Remove the “Spinner /Sprayer” (small nut on the top)
3. Unclip the “Tower” from the top and rear clip
4. Remove the “Tower” from the unit
5. Remove the “Filter Guard” on the bottom by removing 3 torx screws
6. Remove the “Discharge Housing” & “Impeller” (1 – 15 torx screw)
7. Remove and replace the “Accumulator Filter” (8 – 20 torx screws)
8. Assemble in reverse order

Shut off the electricity to the dishwasher. I removed all 11 screws from the door panel. After separating the 2 door panels, I removed the 2 door switches from the door handle ( I used a flat head screw driver to help get them out). Then I unplugged the 2 switches and plugged in the new ones. I replaced the door switches into the door handle ( this was not an exact fit because the new switches is slightly larger than the old ones). I put the new switches in place as tight as I could in the handle. I screwed the 2 screws holding the handle first to secure it before I put all the other screws in the door panel. I turned the electricity to the dishwasher back on. Our dishwasher has been working perfect ever since then and it is over 10 years old.

Pulled out the old one and put in the new one!

No repair needed, just inserted the new dishrack. My only complaint is the lack of upright tongs in half of the rear section of the rack. This limits the number of dishes that can be stored. My original rack had tongs in all areas which better suited my needs. If there is a replacement that better suits my needs I would like an exchange.

I watched a couple of videos on Youtube, and for once it was actually easier than anticipated. Unplug unit. Remove door screws. Separate inner door from outer door. Remove connector from dispenser (needed flat blade screwdriver to pry it at first.) Remove six screws holder dispenser in. Removed old dispenser, inserted new one, tightened six screws, re-connected wires, attached inner door to outer door, and was done in literally less than 10 minutes. Note: I was using a battery powered screw driver to remove the screws, so that's one reason why it went so fast.

First I made sure the breaker for the appliance was turned off!

I only had to unscrew all the screws from the inside door.

Next I used pliers to pry the old Latch Assembly (it is all pig tailed so only to plugs to undo).

Next, I snapped the new Latch Assembly into the two sockets.

Screws were replaced and wa la!

Turned breaker on and tested. Easy as pie. Took about 10 minutes from collecting the tools, fixing the problem, and replacing all the tools.

I actually had my 14 year old daughter do it so that she could learn how to make small repairs. This would have easily cost approximately $150 for a repairman to come and fix.

Then we went to the garage and unstuck the valve on the carberator to our '75 Chevy! (it was cold).

Not bad for a couple of girls!

1. remove inside door panel
2. verified the part needed using partselect web site (entire latch assembly).
3. removed connecting wire sockets and replaced part and door (simple process).

I removed the inside door panel, unplugged the old assembly and replaced with the new. The only caveat is that I THOUGHT the unit came WITH a new plastic handle, and it did not. It was very difficult to remove the handle from the old unit, and to install it in the new unit. The description was not adequate. I had read other blogs and they warned of the same missing handle, and I thought I had ordered correctly. The repair is fine, but the old handle is cracked, so I dont know how long it will last.

I removed the main plastic bolt with a pliers and then just used a screwgun with a star tip for all the screws.
I am a 43 year old woman with no experience and I was able to figure it out. The machine cleans much better now.

Docking station just pops out, you grab the right side and pop it off. Replace by placing the left side in place and then push the right side until it snaps in place. VERY easy.

The gaskets were worn out and that was allowing a lot of water to escape, not enough pressure to clean the dishes.

The door wouldn't close and it thought it the sensor was constantly open so it would turn on even if the door was wide open. Took the 10 or so torx screws off and removed the cover. Lifted the old assembly out and had to use pliers to get the wires detached from the door sensors. Attached the sensors to the new assembly, replaced the cover and screws and that was it. very easy fix.

The old docking station seals were getting very soft. To put a band aid on the wound until the new docking station got here I put a sleve on the washer bar feeder tube. This made an improvement. The docking station was removed using a screw driver to unsnap the station. Then all I had to do was snap the new one in. Be care ful not to pull on the piece the docking station is snapped on to. There are metal clips behind there that hold that water delivery tube on to the back of the dishwasher. Those clips are twisted on and can be striped off easily by pulling strait towards you. If that happens you must secure the clips using self tapping screws and a water proof sealent.